Most street friendly boost solution to 1000+ hp?
 

Block is a low compression 418 ls3. Car will be 60% driver with the definite posibility of road trips, 40% autocross. Obviously 1000+ hp isn't for autocross, so spare me, I just want to see the number before we start to tune for track Time. So, cog driven procharger? Twin turbos? Just tell me what you all think.....

Here is a video clip of my friend's truck, putting 1,121hp to the wheels, on a DynoJet 224x. http://youtu.be/B9yvBuvQjvY



This is a 408LS (6.0 block with a 4.000" stroke), unported L92 heads (better springs, of course), MAST intake, and a PT91mm single turbo. Boost was set at 22psi. For safety's sake, we are running C16 in it for now.

We now have a PowerGlide in it, as two well built 4L80's died painful deaths when we were still testing well under 1,000hp. We DID see that rwhp numbers on our DynoJet dropped nearly 100hp when we went from the 4L80 with a lock-up converter (testing locked) to the looser non-locking converter in the Powerglide.

I designed the cam, and it is NOTHING like any you'll find in a catalog :D

Lee Atkinson

I'm not pickin on you man, I'm really not, but I love these "street friendly 1000+ HP" questions. Sounds killer.

thats why I said 'most' street friendly. And obviously, 'street friendly' itself is subject to WIDE interpretation. I didnt say I wanted to DRIVE IT EVERYWHERE with 1000h. Just want be able to dial it up if I happen to be driving cruise night/stoplight to stoplight more than autocross

For this particular situation lets just say street friendly means basically reliable: Which is going to generate the least heat? Most highway friendly? Gas friendly:lol: ? least maintenance? opinions on the centrifugal cog setup? any ac complications? i have blown ls cars that arent far from it so I know some about what I'm getting into. Its pretty much already been decided, just wanted some feedback.

I think NRE and guys like that would probably be shaking their heads and chuckling at YOU. It seems, in my opinion, the words 'street friendly' and '1000hp' are closer than ever. But thats what forums are for, to either answer someone with constructive advice, or stand up and be counted by your opinion about the question:P Lingenfelter put out a crate 427 tt that made 1000hp half a decade or so ago.

Im well aware this topic truly has been beat to death, but new advances are happening every day. Plus I didnt happen to see a ton of conversation about it here, and im sure we can all agree THIS forum, while small, houses some of the top guys in modern hot rodding right now:lateral: :lateral:

we're GOING to make 1000hp. I just wondered what the guys here who maybe have been there before thought about the MOST docile dependable way to do it

Finnan...props for driving 1000hp on the street. And Eric's a long time member and good guy that I've seen, so take that for what it's worth.

IMHO, and this is just my opinion, an inner cooled twin screw would be my choice. You would think centrifiguals (F1R) for their linear power curve would be good, but they are finiky and do make lots of heat. Turbos create packaging challenges - which is fun for some - and are more complex systems. I'm told Kenne Bell's make the lowest intake temps so that would be my first system to investigate. They do make instant power though, so you need to be a lightfoot.

Looking forward to your decision! :cheers:

If you plan to do the pro touring thing, I just don't think twin turbos are going to work very well on an autocross(It's a delicate dance) and the HEAT on a road course. :wow: Sure factory cars can do it but they aren't making 1000 hp and they have engineers that get paid a lot of money. I'd pick a super charger if you plan to do the multi event deals. If you desire that straightaway performance and don't care to run road races or be competitve on an autocross, twin turbo makes the most power.

4L whipple, or an F1X

INSTABOOST!!!!!

Matt

Check out the thread I started on our trip to the dyno with my friends vette. YSI supercharged LS motor making 840 rear wheel HP wich should be about 1000 at the crank, mild cam and 600 trouble free miles with a dyno tune and several full throttle runs in the middle. He also did it on pump gas and not trying to squeeze every ounce of HP out of it. Its a safe tune and he drives it all the time.
https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...tomorrows+dyno

I would pick a roots style screw blower for a high hp car that will be tracked, but it's not going to make 1000 HP. Oh, they can on a dyno with ice water in the liquid intercooler, etc. but in a driving situation with heat soak they really aren't going to be 1000 Hp.

With that said I'm sure someone will post up an example to prove me wrong. Turbo(s) are by far the easiest way to that goal with a car that can run like a stock small block when cruised. Not ideal usually for the track stuff as they can be fun to drive fast, but they are trackable. A good electronic boost controller to control how the boost ramps up vs rpm and gear would be a great idea. I had several laps with Stielow driving the Mule, and it worked quite well; the boost was turned down a bit though, not on "kill". Then again, that's Stielow driving............ :lol:

My ideal engine for my next car would likely be a roots blown LS. I figure it can make an honest repeatable 750-850+ HP, and that's plenty. Boost is instant, and a bit easier to drive fast I believe.