Battery Relocation
 

i am moving my battery in my 68 Camaro to the trunk and was wondering about wire size, grounding, and cable routing. Also is it better to install the battery on one side of the trunk compared to the other, or install it under the rear package tray?Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Kevin:lateral:

Most will relocate the battery to the rear passenger side.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...OBS6T8/057.jpg

As for the wire size, the bigger the better! I used 2 gauge which I had lying around from a battery relocation kit I bought from Summit years ago. Most will say no smaller than "0" gauge.
I routed mine through the interior only because I installed the MAD Electrical solenoid. The cable is only hot during cranking.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...adsolenoid.jpg

Up the channel and through the passenger side toe kick area.
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...6T8/intbat.jpg

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/...6T8/extbat.jpg

I used the rubber grommets through the floor. Others have used studs when going through the floor.
Being a unibody car, I grounded the battery to the body. Having subframe connectors I could have done it to the frame also. I will have grounding straps engine to frame, frame to body, engine to body. Do not overlook the importance of proper grounding!
Most of all have fun! lol :unibrow:

errr is it just me or did u just say ur cable only works when cranking? how will u charge the battery? do u have a different circuit going from the alternator to battery? and another circuit to all other vehicles power needs? u will need a hot when ignition is on to power acc and even engine.

I didn't mention it but yes I do have all that you mentioned above! :) It was all part of the Mad Electrical "Trunk Mount Battery kit" along with one of his junction blocks. Sorry. His site www.madelectrical.com has a lot of great info dealing with elctrical and the issues form the 60's and how to fix them. Check it out!

My battery is located in the same basic location as Robs but I routed my cable more like this.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...ounted-battery

I see this mistake time and again -- and it really just shows a lack of electrical knowledge...

There is NO REASON to run a GROUND cable "forward". Just run the ground cable to the nearest convenient point on the chassis or body. Then be sure to run a separate ground strap from the body/chassis to the engine block (the largest amp draw when cranking).

GOOD solid grounding is just as critical to the electrical system as the Positive side. Remember electric is a CIRCUIT...

If you ground thru paint - on your smaller connections... be sure to use a STAR WASHER UNDER the connection. These are designed to cut through the paint and dig into the metal. Don't use a split washer which was designed for a completely different use.

Running the positive through body cavities --- is just a fire waiting to happen... if you do this -- be double triple sure you've protected the cable from chafe (remember you can no longer see it and check it!)... and that you've put some kind of retention every 6". You'd be surprised how much vibration is in a car going down the road!

I have the factory ground from the block to the frame, it seems kind of small, what size would you recommend?:willy:

Something that is capable of carrying 200 amps!

Like battery cable... only don't use some cheap junk from Target... I prefer welding cable -- super fine strands of copper... 1/0 or 2/0 would do the job.

Current (amps) is the same throughout the entire circuit, meaning both the ground and positive cables need to be the same size (if they're the same length) for it to be right.

Mine is routed to the roll bar and is only about 24" long. Works like a charm.