'68 Camaro Rear Spoiler Repair
 

The studs that hold the spoiler to the trunk lid have pulled out. I drilled the holes out to about 3/8ths, and want to fill them with a material that will bond to the plastic(?) of the spoiler, but could also be drilled and tapped for replacement studs. I was considering this J-B Weld from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3404/=iz6bht or this product from Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/fixit.php

Any thoughts? Also, would I be better off with 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 studs. My thought was more, finer engagement points, but the 1/4-20 may be better with deeper threads.


http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7...1128smallk.jpg

My only thought would be that rather than just a straight hole id I would reach up in there with a ball shaped burr and create some rings or grooves for the epoxy to fill in. That way you will have your bond in the thread relieves of your studs as well as in the grooves. It only takes a couple minutes, and may be overkill... but short of the epoxy crumbling it will not pull out.

I have read that JB has an insanely high shear strength and it is readily available in many forms.

After reading your post again I gather that you wanted to drill/tap the epoxy. My offering was meant to mount the stud in epoxy. Make sure you have alignment though if you go that route.

I thought about trying to create a wider area lower in the recess, but I feel like I'm already living on borrowed time drilling on a completely painted and ready to go spoiler. I keep waiting to go a touch too far and penetrate the paint.

My sense was that the tapped threads were more likley to fail than the bond of whatever material I use to the spoiler. On an unpainted spoiler, I'd definitely do it your way.

I've not got alot of insite, but I need to do the same on my painted spoiler. One of my studs came out.

Just to be clear,
I didn't mean to bell out the deepest portion of the hole. I can understand your hesitation at that notion.

When I referred to a ball mill I am only talking about like an 1/8" diameter or so burr like in a dremel kit. I would chuck it up real shallow and make a couple rings or grooves in the hole you have there. It may be totally unecessary with a good epoxy but certainly shouldn't be any more invasive than what you have done.

You have to be comfortable with your choice. I am just armchair quarterbacking it... I did however want to describe how small of an area I would relieve.

Then you can just use threaded rod for your studs and the epoxy would fill the threads, the grooves and be stronger than the spoiler itself.:yes:

One of mine did too during assembly after paint. I did not repair it though, the shop did. Every time I see that black blob of goo around the stud against the shiny blue I grumble a little bit. They smoothed it out, but it still glares at me just a wee bit and that was in '96!

Gotcha - I was envisioning going at my poor spoiler with an air tool. Your suggestion makes a lot more sense.

I would glue in the stud using a two part panel adhesive. It will be in there to stay. 3M 8115 is the one I keep on hand for such repairs.

Don

another option for stud repair
 

I am in the process of mounting my old spoiler on the new deck lid and I found that the old studs had rusted to the point of not being able to be removed from the spoiler. When I finally got them apart the studs had unscrewed from the spoiler and were unusable, I tried finding replacement studs on the internet with no luck. I ended up making some out of stainless steel all thread and stainless washers. I cleaned up the existing holes and ground numerous notches in the end of the stud before screwing it back into position. I used a two part industrial epoxy. http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...%C2%AE%20Epoxy Hope to get the spoiler mounted this week and see how well it works. :woot: