Nova Suspension
 

Can anybody tell me the difference between the Chris Alston G-bar/link and the Ridetech airbar 4 link? They look exactly the same, but are the ride heights similar (using coilovers). Does the Ridetech version come with adjustable bars?

I am honestly torn between using: 1. the Alston G-link in the rear and SPC control arms and ATS spindles on the front and 2. all Ridetech front and rear. I have read up on both systems and I am sure I couldn't go wrong with either. I am not trying to pit manufacturers against one another, but I haven't seen many side by side comparisons of these two. Any advice or real world experience out there to help me decide (or Ridetech or SC and C or CA giving me a huge discount Hahaha)?

So if your going to use the AFX Spindles why wouldn't you look at the complete offering from Speedtech? it is a complete proven system that is easy to install and in the same price range as what you have mentioned

[IMG]http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_1481-1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/...va/nova047.jpg[/IMG]

Hey Blake, First off You guys built a couple of my favorite Novas. I have looked at Speedtech and it does look like great stuff, but honestly I am a DIYer and on a budget. I can weld the little tabs on my rearend for the CA/Ridetech systems. Speedtechs torque arm looks like it is over my skill level to weld the brackets on, so I would have to farm that out (no one around here will do it) or buy a new rearend driving the cost up and up. t looks to me like your systems are quite a bit more, which is OK, but I am on a budget and this isn't going to be an all out competition vehicle. Same with DSE stuff, over my skill level and too expensive to have the one guy in town who can do it do it. I would be all for ATS spindles and Speetech arms tho...

I forgot to mention I have a 10 bolt rearend and the speedtech torque arm says 12 and 9 in. That ws a deciding factor also. I am however going to push the limits of the 10 bolt so I will eventually upgrade to a 12 or 9in.

if you can hold the torch and a tape measure you can weld the 4 tabs 9 if it is a 9") 3 on a 12 bolt on for the Torque arm rear end. the upper X member welds in as well total of 6" of welding so you should be able to handle that as well, then it is bolt in. We supply the drawings for the rear end bracket placement.
Our torque arm is 1999.00 complete, if you want Ridetech single adjustables it is 2249.00 so 300.00 more than Ridetech.
Glad to see you feel our Torque arm is more of an all out competition set up.

OK, just looking at pictures of the torque arm it looks like more than that. It looks like enough welds to have to be on a jig to keep the rearend true. How do you usually set the pinion angles?

I have seen people modify the G-link to get a low enough ride height, and it appears the ST torque arm set up can give a lower ride height off the bat, which I do like.

Since I have you on here Blake, how much of a difference is the chicane kit versus the regular coilover in the stock location? Thanks for all the info.

No Jig required, just a good tape measure and level. the brackets are made to fit and line up.the pinion angle is set with the front pinion mount with shims, you don't need to modify anything to get a low ride height. follow the instructions and badabing.

I have a 72 nova, with spc+ats up front and g-link in rear on a 10 bolt. The G-link does have more adjust ability than the airbar but not it's huge.

Ride height is good on Novas, at least from my mockup. I did add their reinforcement plates and some additional reinforcements which I'd advise if you'll drive it hard. You'd to the same with the airbar really.

Thanks Blake, damn now I have an even harder decision and definitely need to add speedtech into my quandry. After Christmas I will probably give y'all a call and get more info.

Thanks Realcoray, thats info I was looking for. Is your car on the road? Pictures?

No it is not, I had it assembled though and the stance was good. If I had to do it all over I would probably have gotten DSE or something else. The main reason I got the g-link was for the adjust-ability but it was extra work to install and remain confident it wasn't going to have issues.