A-Body Front Suspension Questions
 

Im finally able to start piecing together some suspension components after a great holiday. Im starting with the front and am not sure what my best choice would be as far as getting the car lower.......

I plan on purchasing Coil Overs next year. But right now Im either going to buy lowering springs or lowering spindles. Which option would be the best?

I was leaning towards 2" lowering tall spindles to achieve that camber sweetness as opposed to just tossing some springs in there on stock spindles. Does this make sense?

After some hours of searching it looks like the best way to go would be with stock height tall spindles and lowering springs.

Thoughts?

Maybe the lowering spring will give you more of a firmer/performance ride.

But if it were me, I'd do the drop spindle. That way you maintain the smoothness of the factory ride. Then do the tall ball joints to correct geometry.

If you plan on going coil over in the future why not use a tall, drop spindle?
This will give you the drop you want, the added height will correct the geometry, and you'll have a head start on the coil over project (later you can just add upper and lower control arms with coil overs and be done).

The only thing you'll want to watch is that you don't reach ball joint bind using a tall spindle and the stock arms.

If you need to replace the OE shocks you can use our new RQ mono tube dampers that have a 1,000,001 mile warranty.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/muscle...hash=V270.V328

what he said.

Actually, Im experiencing bind right now when in backing up at full crank. I assumed it was bad bearings. The problem is, work was done on the front end by the previous owner and I have no idea what components he used. I was just going to go ahead and replace the spindles in case the components used were of subpar quality.

Current shocks are those funky Edelbrock jobs. I dont know if I like them.

Could it be ball joints that Im feeling binding?

To verify, the RT website states the spindles are compatible with only aftermarket tubular control arms. True?

I've been speaking with the guys from SC&C about my 67 chevelle. I was talking with a guy named Marcus and he gave me some great info for my car. Might be worth a phone call.

I'd look closely at which method will keep the lower arms closest to level (ball joint to mounting bolt) at your desired ride height. IMO, that will give you the best starting point for getting the rest of the geometry correct.

Ray is correct, you want your lower control arm parallel with the ground.
Let's say you have that with the current setup. . .nice thing about a "tall, drop" spindle is the lower arm stays exactly where it is, but the car is a couple of inches lower and the upper arm is now angled up so it increases camber in a turn, which aids handling. (if your lower arm is not parallel with the ground we have other things to look at).

The reason we state these spindles should only be used with tubular arms is that we cannot ensure there is no ball joint bind with the OE arm (if you install our entire "kit" we know where everything is). I would try them out, but make sure you don't reach ball joint bind as this is a major issue.

If you have bind you can pick up the upper control arms as well, which will resolve the problem (as we change the ball joint angles). It will take a little more out of your wallet at the moment, but you'll be closer to that coil over setup you really want anyway.