Suspension Time?
 

I've decided to go the full Pro-Touring rout with my 67 CHevelle. I bought a ls2 with t56 to put in it with wilwood breaks all the way around I've been looking at tons of suspension setups over the past few weeks and have narrowed it down to 3. Ridetech, speedtech and scandc. I was wondering if I could get some pro's and con's or any info at all on any of the kits mentioned above. Im not really trying to piece something together and would rather buy a kit. Also whats the typical estimated time it takes to get some of these products. Im trying to get this car done by the Pleasanton Goodguys event.
Thanks, Tyler

Also, do any of these companies offer any discounts to lateral-g members?

Ridetech
-parts are on the shelf, ready to ship
-shocks (coil over or Shockwave) have a 1,000,001 mile warranty
-test mule 66 Chevelle pulled 1.2G (recorded with G2X at Putnum Park Road Course in 2006, prior to upgraded shocks and on air); won multiple pro-touring events (just do a quick search on here or Pro-Touring.com and you'll find a lot)
-front coil over is a "true" coil over, not a hybrid
-rear coil over conversion
-most kits include the 2" drop "tall" spindle that corrects camber gain
-front sway bar is of modular design which gives additional tire clearance
-customer service (though I have to give kudos to ST and SCC for their customer support as well!)

PM me with your suspension needs.I can help with any thing ridetech.Or call ridetech ask for Darren schilling.Discuss your needs then I can fix your up.Thanks Scott Mock.:thumbsup:

I callede and talked with a rep at ridtech and i really like the kit and all the information I learned. The only thing im kinda concerned with is the trailing arms. They look like they are geared towards a race application and they dont come with the bushings i was looking for.(del a lum) I also dont like the fact that the lower armes arent a boxed style and the top arms look to be a pain in the butt to adjust. Do the have a upgrade for this and im just not seeing it?

Bushings:
You don't want "solid" bushing in the rear 4-link bars. When the vehicle rolls the bars need to articulate. If you use solid bushings you'll induce bind.
We use the OE rubber bushing on the axle side and a heim end on the body side. This provides some NVH reduction while keeping things firm and allowing articulation.

Bars:
The bars aren't "boxed" as they are a thick wall round tube. No need to box a round tube as it's stronger than a box.

Adjustment:
Adjustment is pretty easy. . .you do have to unhook one side of the upper arm to screw the heim in or out, but you'll only adjust these once to set pinion angle, then never touch them again.

Custom:
If you decide you need custom arms we do offer a custom arm option. You can have a myriad of options. . .for an additional price, of course. 99.9% of the vehicles out there do not need this as we've already done the engineering so you don't have to move things.

Thanks for all the information. Im going to make my choice today:thumbsup: Do you know if I buy this kit if they will ship it first and the spindles when the are available. Thanks

Yes, they can ship everything else first, then the spindles when they arrive.

Peak or sustained? Thats close to my car on concrete (1.36 sustained, should be over that now with alignment changes) and I have never seen a street tire car come even close to that, thats the land of well prepared race cars.

we saw peaks of 1.3something (it was in 2006 and I've had a few beers since then!).
This data has been hashed over many times. If you do a search both here and on Pro-Touring you'll see it all.
I'm not trying to state that we have a race car on street tires, I'm only trying to provide some test data as most companies don't.
Please review the posts and make your own decision, that is all I ask.