Just had my ls swap and had a few questions.
 

Hey guys, I just recently had my LS swap completed and I had a few questions. So the set up is a 69 camaro with an ls1 t56 set up. The motor has 241 heads and a mild cam. The t56 is a stock t56 with a ripper b&m shifter. The reason for my question is I had my ls installed and have some questions about tuning, and the difference between a 4 speed muncie clutch, and a t56 clutch? For one my car runs kinda weird and I was curious if the lack of tune was responsible for this issue. Next the clutch feels rather odd, I have the luk high performance clutch kit. I heard really good things about this clutch so I dont think thats it. It is difficult to get into first from neutral, I stall out alot. This may also be due to my lack of tune but I felt I should ask the experts for their thoughts. When I had my muncie 350 combo I struggled some with shifting also, maybe I need to get used to driving a v8 stick set up. Let me know what you guys think.

If it has a cam and headers, and the computer isn't for a manual transmission car... you definitely need a tune.

What size cam?
I assume you kept the MAF sensor?
Do you know what temp the efan turns on/off?
How do you know it is even has a safe tune?

A new clutch will require a few hundred miles of in town driving to break in a little.... 1000 miles it should be fully broken in.

It does have Dynotech headers and a cam, the cam specs are 230/236 on a 112 lsa. I think the computer maybe for an automatic but I am not sure. It has a different maf sensor, it has the 5 pin maf sensor. The fans turn on, I am not sure if it is safe to tune but I assume so. What are some reasons it would not be safe to tune? I guess my question with the clutch is will the tune make coming out of first easier where i dont have to hit the gas so hard? Like I said the 4 speed clutch was difficult but easier than the t56 clutch, I never stalled that much with that one.

Def need a tune with that cam. & yes i can see it being a bitch on take off if tune is off. I wouldn't run it hard in case its running lean in upper rpm range. Driveability is toughest part to tune. That's a fairly decent sized cam for stock ls1. Even with tune you'll need to give it little bit of throttle when letting clutch out from dead stop. Spend the money on a good tuner it will be worth it and be right the first time.

Ok, that makes sense. I was told the cam was not really all that big. After hearing it in the car it does sound rather radical even with no exhaust . I was gonna go straight to paint but I think I am gonna get exhaust, tune, then I can drive the car to wherever I have to instead of towing it.

It sounds like you also need the clutch adjusted if you're having trouble going from neutral to first.

Definitely get it to a competent tuner, and don't beat in it till then.

Anthony,

Good to hear on the progress! Quick questin is teh clutch a Ls1 or Ls7 style, and did the kit include flywheel, etc/ Have you tried contacting Luke Perf on the clutch? Also before going into the tune direction some steps you can check to make sure the system does not have any other issues.

Was the clutch a complete kit, and new, never installed? The reason I ask is because LS7 style clutches behave differently from LS1 clutches and will need to be "reset" before installing.

With the car off, with the clutch pressed are you getting decent resistance and return? With multiple presses, any changes?

With the engine on, does it change dramatically? Was the slave bled correctly, and which one did you use? Drill modded or not?

I am assuming the install, orientation of clutch disk, bleeding, etc are all good.

Good luck, Gui

This question is a bit from left field, but what did you put in the transmission for fluid?

I was told by many sources that using any synthetic ATF fluid...or basically anything, but the Dex III the tag called for can cause shifting difficulties in and out of first and reverse.

Thanks Gui, the clutch I picked was the ls1 luk clutch kit I asked about previously. I am getting the car back later this week and can try some of the suggestions you had previously. Today I will text you some picture updates.


I dont remember. It was 100% synthetic I remember that much. I will check and find out. The trans doesnt feel stiff tho.

230/236 on a 112 LSA? That's pretty big with lots of overlap. The MAF if your running one won't be to happy if it's anywhere close to the throttle body and the MAP sensor, it's not happy at all at idle Ill bet. A good tuner can work around most of this where do you live?