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-   -   Clean sheet front suspension design help (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=45092)

ONROADYNO 02-12-2014 03:33 AM

Clean sheet front suspension design help
 
I am planning to make a front chassis with C6 uprights and control arms for a 1971 - 74 Australian GM car. 60" track.
The chassis is very similar to the same year Chevelle.

I would just like to check if my mental process is correct.

1: Find out what is the factory offset is for rims (C6).
2: Place rim/tire in desired location
3: Bolt up hub and control arms
4: Make bottom control arms parallel to the ground
5: Position top arm for correct camber gain... ( how do I do this please )
6: Make mounting points for suspension and chassis rails (as wide as possible)

Thankyou

ONROADYNO 02-12-2014 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONROADYNO (Post 535802)
I am planning to make a front chassis with C6 uprights and control arms for a 1971 - 74 Australian GM car. 60" track.
The chassis is very similar to the same year Chevelle.

I would just like to check if my mental process is correct.

1: Find out what is the factory offset is for rims (C6).
2: Place rim/tire in desired location
3: Bolt up hub and control arms
4: Make bottom control arms parallel to the ground
5: Position top arm for correct camber gain... ( how do I do this please )
6: Make mounting points for suspension and chassis rails (as wide as possible)

Thankyou

Function before form

crazycarl 02-12-2014 01:44 PM

Hey there,
Please take what I say in a conversational tone; it is not meant to chastise or attack.

What you are proposing is not a 'clean sheet' design. You are starting with existing compeonts which introduce their own set of limitations requiring certain compromises. Also, if you don't have the knowledge to answer #5 then you may want to reconsider your plan to design something from scratch. Building a front suspension is not like building a pair of ladder bars.

- Compromises -
C6 spindle is designed for a front-mid engine vehicle. The rack needs to be relocated so it doesn't end up in the middle of the block. Then you need to cut off the steering arms and relocate them. If the new arms place the tie-rod in the wrong location in 3D by even a small amount, like 1/16th", then the car can have issues with ackerman and bump steer.

Corvette control arms are extremely long and will make building headers a huge pain.

The Corvette has a 'parabolic' front spring which also assists as an anti-roll device. If you try to use a stock Corvette lower arm with coilovers the car will have a digressive motion ratio. That means the car will need a HUGE anti-roll bar to keep it from trying to roll over in corners.

So, take all these things into consideration. Just some free thoughts.

Good luck with your project.

ONROADYNO 02-12-2014 07:30 PM

Thankyou
 
I appreciate your valuable input.
I am trying to learn twice & build once (mark twice & cut once).

Basically I would like to (try) to put 315 tires on the front.
I thought C6 would have the best load carry capacity bearing.

In Australian modifications laws it is permissible to retro fit factory manufactured components.
Fabricated control arms would have to be tested at a cost that out ways the conversion.
Ideally a DSE X subframe assembly would be ideal but besides control arm problems in approval the welding in of a stub is frowned on.

I take all input as constructive and as a valuable lesson.

Rod P 02-12-2014 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONROADYNO (Post 536027)
I thought C6 would have the best load carry capacity bearing.

the front bearing pack was designed to ease manufacturing(multi- vehicle use) and to take bearing preload adjustment problems out of assembly, of home builders and repair shops


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