Bead rolling?
 

Just wondering if you guys have had better luck with certain types of dies vs metal warpage?

I cut out an 18 gauge steel one piece trunk floor for my Cadillac, put quite a few patterns into it with an 1/8 step die and warped the hell out of it.

I was cranking it down rather tight, maybe that is my problem?

Or is everyone pre-stretching with an english wheel? (which I don't have).

I may have just put too many beads into this thing but trying to avoid the next one being a taco as well.

I'm strictly novice, but run into the same problems as you.
I'm sure you've watched a few of the Lazze videos on youtube where he talks about it, he pre shrinks or stretches and it still looks like it has some warp in it to me....

But then look at some of the Jamey Jordan stuff and his panels still look as flat as new stock after he has just beadrolled the Mona Lisa in to a panel... wow.


Jeff-

I had the same problem. Try not cranking down so tight or, use a english wheel to pre-stretch it.

you guys are scaring me. i was going to go buy one of those sweet harbor freight ones to do my entire floor LOL

Yea I have run into that problem also. Sometimes I have to English Wheel out the middle flat area after I bead roll. It still has some warping to it. I have found that if you build a flat catch table front and rear of the bead roller it helps keep the metal flat as it's pinched between the die. Less up and down motion during rolling. Also as noted above, smaller bites.... I mean less pressure between passes. I do multiple passes to ease the metal into shape. However, it makes it hard to pass directly over the prior line. That's where the catch table comes in handy. Also try raising the bead roller up to eye level... which helps visibility during the multiple passes.

For those amazing panels that seem to come out perfectly flat, I think the pros are using an annealed thinner metal than 18G.

That's my 3cents. lol

Yep, it's how you hold, support the metal, the type of metal and die you use. Experiment a little and you'll learn what works with what.

Thing like floorpan where you do alot of wide, deap beads (3/8" or even 1/2") you will use so much material for those that you will end up warpetch for sure.

For those you need to prestretch with ewheel. Deeper you do, or numbers of beads in same sheet, more you need to prestrech it.

Bead art like Jordan's, the bead is low and narrow so use of material is minimum.
He use so calld flame die that is two dies on different line pressing sheet up and down next to each other. On floor beads you are pushing one die in the other and streching is much greater .

Of course keeping sheet flat is good when doing flat pieces like floorpans.

Thanks for the input guys. I did make 2 hat channel supports on the brake which will run the length of the floor front/back so it won't be unsupported.

I have 2 more sheets of sheetmetal to ruin. One in 18 gauge and one in 20 gauge. Plan is to have a simpler pattern and not run the dies balls deep:superhack:

I made an outfeed table exactly like Brett is talking about. Used a sheet of 3/4" melamine and notched it to fit up around the wheels. Really handy for managing big sheets by yourself. It definitely makes a difference if you don't let it droop as you roll.


Jeff-

I'm sorry -- I got a good chuckle out of your misery.... and it's not because of you personally doing something... but how many times I read or see people thinking that what they see on the internet (like the builds on here) -- is just --- Get a machine and start makin' stuff! Welding -- fab -- bending -- English wheel -- whatever.....

I don't have, nor have I ever used, a bead roller - but I KNOW it's not nearly as simple as the people that can do it, make it look. I remember the tailgate for the Craftsman truck that was made at The RS... and thinking WOW!! That dude has some serious skills 'cause I can't even figure out how he made that thing!!