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Electric Life P/W vs Nu-Relic - my review
No comparison. 1967 Mustang. I put in the Electric Life kit from Summit 5-6 years ago and stuggled mightily getting the windows to roll up past the seals. Plus when you rolled them down they dropped down into the door like a rock, it was actually scary. I trimmed and fussed the seals on the door and the roof endlessly and even reduced their utility somewhat and could just get the windows to roll up with the door closed, as long as the battery was strong or the car was running, but it was always a close run thing and I couldn't keep the seals tight.
Was putting glass in my new doors and they just sucked again. So I ponied up for the Nu-Relic electric windows and what a difference. First of all they use a spring just like a factory regulator to slow down the descent and store some energy for the ascent, and they use bigger motors and more powerful frames. No problem rolling up the windows right into the seals plenty of power. They still clank and clunk a bit, there is not quite enough clearance between the motor and the roller rail, but its a small price to pay for the extra power. I have a set of Electric life power windows for '67-68 if you're interested ha ha but I don't feel good about even ebay'ing these things. |
Thanks for the review. I am about to purchase a set of Nu-relics. This makes me feel a bit more at ease.
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We sell alot of nu Relics kits, many to customers like you who are replacing Electric Life units. They all have the same feedback once they are installed. There is not a better kit on the market.
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Screw Electric Life power window kits. I have their 4 window kit in my Chevelle and a dog could roll the windows up faster than their kit. That includes training the dog how to do it. Their kits sucks. I advise anyone who is contemplating Electric Life's kits to strongly reconsider. Hey, have at it, but you've been warned. This is what they need to do to the power window business>>>>>>:getout: My next kit will be the Nu-Relic also.
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I am installing a Nu-Relic kit right now and this kit installs very easy and looks very well built,I have not got to run the motors yet but very pleased so far.
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When I installed my side glass, I used the Electric-Life lifts (purchased years ago), but temporarily powered them with a pretty heavy wire jumped directly to a 12V battery. Having heard about how poor the Electric-Life lifts were, I was impressed with them as I aligned my side windows - the glass zipped up and down.
That got me thinking. I looked at the schematic for the Electric-Life wiring harness and realized that they run the power from switch to switch, so you're trying to push power for the motors through a long and very small pipe. I don't know what the Nu-Relic wiring harness is like, but the Electric-Life harness is not well thought out. When I finally wired my window lifts I used heavy gauge wire directly from the motors to a dedicated switch for each window set in a center gauge panel. With that huge - and for many impractical - modification, the performance of the motors is quite good and the windows move very quickly. For those of you struggling with Electric-Life windows, you might try feeding them with a heavy gauge wire and see if it's the motor or the harness that's not cutting it. Some rewiring might address your issues. That said, something that works without modification is always preferable. |
Mike I'm glad to hear that I have a set in my cellar to go in the Camaro. I'll definitely try your way.
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Funny you say this because I used a set of Electric Life windows in the 70 Chevelle Convert I finished up last year and had ZERO problems with them. Reading other comments about how slow they moved and springing back, etc.. I had none of that. But I was controlling them through an ISIS InMotion controller so I ran all of my own 14g wiring right up to the motors. Perhaps their issues are more with their control system rather than the window kits themselves. |
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