14 bolt full floater
 

I know it's big and heavy, and too wide, but shortening and ordering custom axles is no big deal. It's a true full floater with huge bearings, the ability to mount rotors inboard of the hub, bulletproof, and I'm getting one almost free. But it's 8 lug :( and with the diameter of the axle flange it's almost impossible to get any 5 lug to fit even with a adapter. So I guess the real question is do I use the lathe to make new hubs and since I'm ordering new shorter axles I can get a smaller axle flange and I can make it a 5 bolt pattern but it'll still be a big center bore, or is there any way to get a good 17x10 or 17x12 lightish wheel in 8 lug?

I have seen them converted to 6 lug but I dont think 5 lug would be possible. And you want to talk about heavy....... the diff alone is almost 80 lbs.

I also posted here if anyone is interested.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=913930

Good advice over there.

I put together the GMR floater for INTIMD8. Those are not oddball bearings and are available at the local parts store.

I know nothing of the rear end you are talking about but being strong enough for drag race and durable enough for road race are two different things. It will definitely need a cooler, get that spool out of your head, too.


Good luck with the project, that's quite an undertaking.

I think what you are proposing is certainly doable. If you know going in you'll have substantial unsprung weight with that large center section and tubes.

I would plan to build it as a full floater. You'll need new axles,axle stubs and all the outboard hubs and brake units. Just make sure axles can be made to match your differential and to the hub.

I built a full floater AMC 20 for my Road Race AMX using all Moser pieces. The GM 14 bolt should be a piece of cake compared to an AMC! The Moser stubs are designed for a three inch tube. I believe the 14 bolt is probably larger, so you might have to machine a ring to enlarge the Moser stub to fit your tube. I had to machine the stub down for the AMC.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps68f22482.jpg

You'll need to do some quality fit up work and welding to ensure correct dimensions on the finished product. Depending on your usage you can also dial in some camber or toe-in if you desire. One thing about the full floater is you don't have pad knock back issues. Like I said as long as you can deal with the weight, go for it!

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5be4fa6.jpg

What is the intended usage? That is a good axle for a rock crawler or a heavy duty truck... I swapped one into my diesel powered f100..

Not sure why on earth anyone would want to put one in a car, it would just be way to heavy and you wouldn't gain anything... If you have the ability to modify that thing, and you want a floater why not just build a 9"?

Pretty heavy pig, but as people have been putting dana 60's, not that far off. You can shave some weight of the 14 bolt as well aorund the housing and I woudl recommend welding he center of the tubes (I spun a 14 bolt breaking the rosetta welds, not fun).

The 60 will give you more options hub wise, but you will ned to shorten the housing, and then go full custom. On a budget, you could go with a C+C (cab and chassis) about 63". You can modify the hub, I will try digging for the company but they sell the already modified 5 lug setup (I think the smallest is 5X5).

Good luck!

Gui

Solid axle has the hubs in 5 X 5 1/2:

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart...&idproduct=139

http://offroad-review.com/new/tp-ima...14Bolthubs.jpg

The solid axle hub will also further narrow the axle WMS to closer to 61". The big plus is you can run stock 14 bolt shafts, so big savings there.

I am trying to find the vendor with the 5 on 5, but that is another option. Note the bolts woudl be closer to the center hub bore. You will also need to make sure that your wheel centers will wok with the hub diameter.

Edit, I believe another company here doing the custom hubs is the GMR, they were designing a while back hubs for 35 spline axles; not sure what applications.

http://www.ironworksspeedandkustom.c...01207261801020

The difference between a floater 8-lug Dana 60 and a Dana 60 from a '70 Hemi 'cuda is over 100 pounds. The tubes are far thicker their entire length for the 8-lug FF. And that's just not necessary for a thousand horse 4000# car, no matter what the tires.
Cut the ends off a floater 60, weld them to a Ford 8.8. It'll hold up to 1500 HP, you can get them with 3" or 3.25" tubes depending on what you get it from, and getting both a FF 60 and an 8.8 of your choice will be under $ 300 from any decent salvage yard.
Also, not much choice of traction diffs for the 14-bolt. Not even the Ford 9" has more choices than the 8.8.