How would you build a 10 bolt for cornering?
 

Just like the title asks. I'm interested in hearing what changes you feel are necessary to make an 8.5" 10 bolt go around corners reliably. My car is a street car mainly so nothing too hardcore. I'm not keeping my current rear end under the car. I figured I might as well address some of the stock 10 bolt's short comings and build it more for it's intended purpose with the new rear end.

Thanks

I would think 9" ends with some type of floating calipers, upgrade to 31 spline axles a nice limited slip diff with a aluminum support diff cover.

Trey, when i did my Baer brakes (07?) i convrted the rear from drum, this allowed a "floating" rear (albeit i have a 12 bolt, but same idea)>I've tracked it once and autocrossed it a few times, works very well. Nver had a hint of padknock.
Will see how it goes as i do my new set-up though....

Thanks Mike. I already have C5 rear brakes, and they are performing well aside from the parking brake but that's for another time.

What I'm mainly interested in or concern about is what I should do to strengthen the rear end and eliminate the c-clips. I'd really like to do something more robust than the bolt on eliminator kit Strange has available. They have their street version which has tapered bearings but it's the bolt on part I'm not keen on. Plus, I believe I can get larger bearings back there with a Ford style end. I'm just not certain on all this so I figured I'd ask.

Thanks no go, too.

Strange and Moser have housing ends that take a big 9" axle bearing, but still has the GM brake bolt pattern. So you could run a ford tapered roller bearing and keep your brakes.

Strange H1143 and H1144

Moser 7900

Thanks Mike. I just found that out off NastyZ as well. That sound pretty much exactly what I was looking for I believe. The only issue I wonder now is what would axles cost me. I'll shoot Moser and Strange emails and see what they say about that. Thanks again.

Moser 31 spline 9" axles are $300 with bearings installed. You just need to make sure the brake standoff matches what you have now. That is the dimension from the brake mounting flange to the axle flange. And make sure the the od of the rotor locator matches the rotor inner diameter.

No idea on that dimension. I'll keep it in mind when I go to get this all done. Just have to also find someone that can do the work for me.

So do you think changing ends like this would be a good way to achieve my goal?

For the GN's the 8.5,31 spline axles are good into the 6-700hp range drag racing. They typically don't use the tapered bearing because they aren't concerned about cornering, but that is a solid setup in the 9" rears. Unless you have plans of over 700hp, this should be plenty. Buy a 31 spline trutrac if they make it for the 8.5. If not the eaton 31 spline clutch posi is tough to beat.

Once you get good axles (33 spline ) and a spool in an 8.5' the limit becomes the ring and pinion itself. But that is way up ther in cars drag racing with transbrakes making 900+ hp and weighing 3500lbs.

Thanks Mike. I appreciate the info. I'll only be making about 500hp/tq at the flywheel and really don't see myself ever making much more.