Evaluate my frame table!
 

Playing around with Sketchup and designing a frame table. It's a big 'un, 17' long, 6' wide, and 3' tall. 3X3 square tubing with 3/16 thickness. Main use will be for my '86 C10 (hence the length) but I'm sure it will be used for other projects down the road. Let me know what you think and ideas for improvement.
Attachment 51949

You won't like the width. Both of mine are 5' x 16" and at times that is wider than I want it. If you use 4"x4"x1/4" on the main rails you won't need the trusses. Mine is 3/16 and I wish it was 1/4", it would take some of the "ring" out of it.

Here is a pic of mine, disregard chassis.
http://frameupwheelworks.smugmug.com...0%282%29-M.jpg

Three legs on each side and three main crossmembers welded in, the rest of the crossmember float so I can put them where I need them for whatever I am working on......or get them out of my way. The legs are built in two sections so I have two different heights available. Casters or adjuster pads are usable at either height.

Make it as simple and as universal as you can, that will ensure that it stays useful. Also remember that you will want to work under it so leave enough room that you can.

Another note on the truss work, the more you weld on the main rails the more likely it is to pull out of level.

One more thing, leave the ends open. My welded in crossmembers are 2 feet back from the end of the mainrails, someday you are going to want to put the motor in the chassis and that crossmember will be in your way.

Good information and advice Donny. :thumbsup:

Probably some of the best advice i've read about building a frame table. Thanks!

Agree times two,beware thou if you leave the ends open and weld the second cross members tubes will pull into each other so either have a temporary piece in there just for the welding process or make it a bolt in crossmember

My thinking behind the 6'x17' frame table was so that I could mount the body and components where I wanted them at ride height, then build my frame around the components. The outside of the tires are roughly 6' and the front to back of the body is 17'.

I see what you are saying about the removable crossmembers, I had considered building some for resting where the components will go. IE one below the engine mounts, one below the tranny mount, etc etc.

I have been getting better at designing in Sketchup little by little, I'm starting to think I may be able to design the frame without having all the pieces assembled for a reference like I had originally planned.

You can plate and have these sections bolt in instead of welded. Don's right it will pull it from level.

So how about this...

A basic rectangle frame on top with 1 additional crossmember centered in the middle of the rectangle. 3 legs on each side directly below crossmembers, welded on (carefully), with bolt on girders (correct term?) centering from middle of leg (to keep some room for getting underneath) to the side rails meeting between welded in crossmembers?

Sound like a step in the right direction?

There's tons of plans already out there on the internet to copy. I've even seen them with complete materials lists and how to's. Just Google Automotive frame table.

I've seen lots of 'em -- and it appears to me that you're planning on building a tank on it with all the material you're putting into the table. Not trying to flame you here - just sayin' I think you're way overbuilding it and all the extra stuff is just going to get in your way. Keep it simple. With three down legs per side it will be plenty rigid. I agree with Donny -- I'd do .250 wall tubing.

You don't have to keep this within .0001" === cars ride on springs - and the suspension is adjustable... bodies have bushings and shims... plus or minus 1/32" is probably plenty close enough... I'd be more concerned about how parallel the rails are because you'll be pulling measurements off these the length of the car and parallel would be a good thing!

I could be overbuilding it, I have a habit of doing that. However, I always like to err on the side over too strong vs finding out halfway through a build that I have flex somewhere! With the bolt on girders, I could remove them to gain access if needed, or if I find out that I have plenty of strength. I'm building this primarily for my C10 which will probably come in close to 4000 lbs.

I have scoured the internet reading different thread and have seen so many different ways of building them. This design was based off of one that I found that made sense to me. I figured I'd start up a thread so I could get some feedback on my design.

Seems like there is more than 1 way to skin a cat... who knew?