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-   -   Battery cable routing (https://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49693)

cwylie 03-24-2015 09:34 AM

Battery cable routing
 
2 Attachment(s)
Is this a good place or am I going to run into issues. Just want to check before a bolt them down.

rickpaw 03-24-2015 09:58 AM

That's how I ran my cables too. So far no issues.

Tu

cwylie 03-24-2015 10:26 AM

You just use cushion clamps to mount them?

randy 03-24-2015 10:48 PM

instead of going thru the backseat I'm going to go towards the fender. Use a grommet to pass thru the area where the rear side window is and ill place the battery in the passenger rear

rickpaw 03-25-2015 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwylie (Post 599883)
You just use cushion clamps to mount them?

Yes.

GregWeld 03-25-2015 04:46 PM

Remember that stuff vibrates -- thus RUBS -- constantly while the car is in motion. On a Yacht - you must anchor wires every 6 inches... I pretty much use the same rule when doing automotive. The LAST thing you need is a hidden cable shorting out.

IF there is any metal near the piece (hot wires) I wrap the hot with extra abrasion protection. I also never just pass hot wires thru a body with or without a grommet. I use bulkhead fittings like the ones shown in picture.

Also -- not sure why you're running a ground cable like that. The body and chassis are "ground" --- so you could have saved yourself a lot of cable by just running the ground from the battery to a good spot (clean metal with star washers or a good welded stud) as close to the battery as you can (making it all look good and having some flexibility to move the battery with still being hooked up etc.

I then add a short piece of ground between the motor and chassis.... remembering that this needs to be able to handle 200+ amps... If you don't think you have a good enough contact between body and chassis - you can also add a short ground strap between the body and chassis.

JKnight 03-25-2015 08:49 PM

I like that the bulkheads you used don't seem to require a ginormous hole. What brand/source are they?

cwylie 03-26-2015 01:09 PM

I got the kit from DSE. It came with enough to run both full length so I figured I would do it. I was also going to ground it to the chassis in the back.

kevin_l 03-26-2015 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwylie (Post 600182)
I got the kit from DSE. It came with enough to run both full length so I figured I would do it. I was also going to ground it to the chassis in the back.

I have this kit coming as well, and was planning on running both positive and negative the full length. Being a uni body car I figured it was best, I am very weak in electrical knowledge, can anyone chime in on the matter. Is this normal practice or a waste of cable. Like cywlie said the kit comes with enough cable to do this. So no extra money is spent. Interested to hear what everyone else does too. thanks

barrrf 03-26-2015 03:37 PM

A shorter ground is a happy ground. It is best practice to make the grounds as short as you can.


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