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Recommendation for LS3 Head Studs
Gents, need to stud up an LS3--was going to just order up ARP Head Studs, but figured I would post here first before hitting "Pay" button.
Motor is blown, probably between 11 and 14 pds. Was going to use stock GM head gaskets as I know guys running them making 18 pds with no issues thus far, but thought I would throw that in the ring as well. I haven't pulled apart an LS motor yet, so any thing I need to look out for while pulling heads off, putting the head studs in and reassembling (other than torque sequence, etc)? Big Wanda thanks you all in advance. Doug |
ummmm just don't break nothin.
I think you got it. Way easier than a BBC. :thumbsup: |
I've read multiple stories of people cracking blocks due to coolant in the bolt holes, so make sure you really have them dry. Much less of a problem with studs since you aren't torquing them to the hole, but still a good thing to check.
Probably no different than other blocks, but the aluminum block likely is much more sensitive to this... |
Suggestions
ARP studs are the way to go. Pick up one off their thread chasers (I prefer this instead of a tap) as well to clean up the crap out of the bolt holes. Use their thread lubricate as well as you are going into aluminum and galling is always a risk.
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We'll need a tutorial of this process for the less adventurous members.
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We'll see how that goes. D |
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NEVER use a TAP to chase threads... Taps are for cutting threads not cleaning up threads. That's what a thread chaser is for. When you run steel into aluminum - dissimilar metals - always use Ultra Torque or Blue thread locker (not red). Put the head on FIRST - and then install the studs in the block. Finger tight is all they need to be. Trying to slide the head down on the studs already installed in the block risks damaging the stud threads or the beautiful finish on the head. |
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