Chance to buy a Lateral Dynamics 3-Link.....should I?
 

Ok, so I was all set on a torque arm for the rear of my '69 Camaro when I stumble, kind of, on a chance to buy a Lateral Dynamics 3-Link. I know the reputation of them on here but I'm putting this out there for any input anyone might have. This is not going on a hardcore track car (although it could become that), but I have to admit I like having the coolest and best performing stuff, whether I need it or not. This car started while I was married and had little money to spend on it. Now I'm not married and have more money to spend on it, funny how that works.

So, would I even notice a difference between the two? I know I have to cut the car up some, don't really mind that, but do I need (or have time) to go that far? I'm most likely going to go with Jay's full floater axle set up for the rear using my C6 Z06 brakes and while I didn't mini-tub the car I'm almost sure that's changed and now I'm going to.

Looking for any kind of feedback at all, so fire away, thanks!

I can't compare the LD 3 link to a torque arm.

I do have an LD 3 link in my '68 Camaro that's (so far) only street driven.

The LD 3 link puts a bit of noise into the cabin, not awful, but some. Exhaust routing can be a challenge. Unless the full floater is a bolt on, you'll be modifying the rear housing that comes as part of the LD setup.

You might PM David Pozzi and ask him his opinion. He's had a lot of experience with the LD 3 link in Bad Penny and the One Lap Camaro.

Thanks for the info Mike. Do you happen to know if some of the first kits came without exhaust cutouts or shock mounting bosses in the rear cross-member? This kit doesn't have those and is also missing the diagonal support bars between the main Watts link mount and outer U-Shaped hoop.

Buy it! :hairpullout:

What's missing?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...540/liNrVD.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...3/img0371g.jpg

There are some differences in the rear crossmember. Maybe I'm paranoid, because I can be, but my concern is the rear crossmember is a poorly constructed copy and not an original LD piece as it doesn't match any others I've seen pics of. That wouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker if the price was right. I could make another crossmember set up if I really had to. Hell, I haven't even been able to hook up with the seller yet to go and actually see it though either. Also, this would be a considerable change in plans for my car so I'm just making sure (I'm pretty anal if you haven't figured that out already).
[IMG]http://i886.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/IMG_2437.jpg[/IMG]

On a quick (and somewhat wine impaired look) it all looks okay except for the exhaust reliefs in the rear cross member. Let me take a shot of my exhaust system and see how much that matters.

Who's this coming from?

Edit: Took a quick look this morning. I can't get a good picture. That said, the exhaust is probably about 1/2" into the exhaust relief on the cross member on both sides. If you buy this setup, I'd add the exhaust reliefs, but move them inward a bit.

Call me crazy but I would be taking a good look at the Art Morrison 3 link before investing in that one. When it is all said and done the price is not that much different but you get the advantage of their rear subframe etc.

Don

I think that would depend on how much you are paying.

Its a good set up.

Thanks for all the replies and I know exactly what you're saying Don. My problem is I'm trying to take a car and change it's trajectory mid-project and after it's been painted, undercoated, etc. because now I can afford to spend more on it. What I really should do is just continue it on it's current path.......aww hell, where's the fun in that? :G-Dub: