68 C10 project
 

Here's a few pics of my C10 project.

LS1/T56 drive train.

C5 brakes. 20" Rambler wheels.

Lowered 4"in front. 6" in back.

Total cab off restoration.

Was a good winter project.

Nice looking truck. Like the fabric on the seats.

The seats are 2014 GTi seats. Very comfy. They have vertical adjustment and lumbar. Paid $250 the front and back seats.

Love the stance of the truck and the seats.

Daniel

Very nice.

The LS1 in my truck chassis dynoed at 380 rwhp. I know it's not monster numbers but it runs great. With the T56 and 4:10 gears it's not slow. Small cam so a bit of a lope. Plenty of vacuum for the power brakes.

Like what you did with the gauges, nice truck.

Little more detail on the truck.

Howell wiring harness and computer.

12 bolt rear end. Auburn posi. Moser axles with 4.75' bolt pattern. Axle ends turned down to match the rotors.

Bell tech springs and shocks all the way around.

POL tubular arms up front. 5.5 caster. Goes very straight down the road.

The brake booster is a C5. CapnFab makes the nice booster mount that integrates the trans master cylinder mount along correct pedal linkage.. 2002 fbody brake master cylinder. Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve.

Ididt column. Painless chassis wiring harness.

Kept the stock heater assembly. Lined the cab and doors with dynamat.

Afco dual pass radiator. Spal fan.

Auto meter gauges. Dash panel modded to eliminate the exposed screws that hold it to the dash.

The cab, doors and front sheet metal are all rust free from CA.

The box sides, front panel and wheel wells are aftermarket. They fit quite well. Minor slotting of holes to square up. I scored a mint tail gate OEM locally.

Georgia southern pine wood box.

A local body shop let me do all the body work under their supervision. Lot's of sanding to get everything straight. I've never done any body work before. They did the paint spraying and cut/buff work. Almost two gallons of paint to cover everything. Oh and more than a couple of cases of beer.

I'm going to add side moldings this winter around the wheels and across the doors to break up some of the red paint.

68 c10
 

Bed pic.

VERY nice.

Thanks for all the nice comments.

One thing I just remembered.

With the ECE LS engine mounts and trans mount the trailing arm cross member can be an issue when you lower the truck 6" in the back. The T56 magnum is quite long. You need a "high" trans cover to clear the top of the trans.

My engine angle is about 4 degrees down. My rev limiter is set at 6200. Per my drive shaft shop the drive shaft should be 3.5" per the length required.

Again per them I could use a 3" tube but they would not recommend it. So the I had to open up the trailing arm drive shaft opening so I have about a 1/2" of clearance at drive height. My axle bump stops are set so the drive shaft won't touch the cross member.

If I was to do it again I would lower the engine to give me additional clearance. Maybe this winter?

Just FYI. Again thanks for all the kind words.