72 Camaro
 

This is where I am coming from https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=44704 and going with this 72, I just purchased. It has been a little while since I sold my Corvette after my son’s (LtCol Kevin Herrmann, USMC pilot) death on 6 Dec 2018, as a result of a F-18 striking is aircraft during refueling, He and his crew of 4 were killed and we are finally burying him in Arlington 23 July. They recovered the cockpit at 16,000 ft after 6 months. During my 27 yrs in the USMC as a pilot, I buried a lot of friends just never thought that one would be my son.
My wife and daughter said I need another project to keep me busy besides my son’s wife and three wonderful granddaughters who are currently living with us, so I thought a second gen would be a great start. No more Corvettes as they are just too cramped inside for me as I grow wiser.
This 72 has a 350/350, gears M23 4spd and a 12 posi with 342 gears and a very solid body, interior is good for now and nice paint.
I have researched the heck out of these threads for 2nd gen Camaro’s and still a little undecided where I am going. I do know the chrome wheels are going and I need 275 x 18 on the front and would like 335/315 in the rear. A small block like something like the 600hp 427 FI Blueprint engine I had in my vette but open to carbureted as well but this time an automatic. The body and frame ares rust free and the paint and body work are certainly good for now but not very fond of silver. The only body work I anticipate are wheel tubs.
I am open for suggestions as I am going to tackle the suspension first. Looks like a four link set up is preferred but have seen keeping the leaf springs and there are several viable options out there. I need to change the rear gearing from 342, but will wait until I have my engine and transmission ideas. How much can the 12 bolt take with the c clips?
Note: I plan on doing some fun auto crossing and take it on the track for some fun road course stints but still want to hop in and drive with AC.
Many thanks as this will take some time 1(yr).

Looks like a great starting point.

I'd put more tire up front if you put a 335 out back.

Moser makes housing ends for the 12bolt that allow you to run big Ford taper bearings so you can eliminate the c-clips. This is what I did with my 10 bolt. Kore3 has brake kits that will work with these new ends, as well.

Good luck with the project. Loved what you did with the vette so I'm looking forward to what you do with this one.

Let me just say thank you for your family's service and sacrifice, my sincere condolences.
Looks like you've got a fantastic car to start with! I went with all DSE suspension in my 68 with the goal of driving it on both the street and track. The suspension has excellent street manners and the ride quality is very good when you dial the shocks back. The next best thing is having cold AC blowing on you!
As far as the rear end, I wouldn't be concerned about a 600hp motor destroying a 12 bolt unless it has underlying issues to begin with. I'd definitely check it out (wear pattern, axles bearing surfaces, end-play, etc.) but most of us don't completely abuse these things to their limit...we over-build them and baby them except for track days where they get heavy duty use but we're not dumping the clutch or neutral bombing the trans at 3,000rpm with full on race slicks.

Thanks for your comments all very good and the way I am heading. Thanks G-Machine we buried my son yesterday in Arlington it was magnificent. Kevin

Ok I have 275's in the rear looking for suggestions to get more meat for the money underneath. Yes performance counts as well. Thanks

I believe you can get a 305 if you roll the fender lip and remove the rear seat belt bulge that's at the front of the well. How low you go with the ride height will have a huge effect on this, too. The fenders are draped/streched over the wheels. You can't go up into the well much at all before you're hitting the top of the well.

You can definitely fit a 305 or 315 if you do a DIY mini tub by cutting out the inner fender and moving it over just enough so that the inner part is flush with the the frame rail. Before DSE came along, this is how it was done. It's like a 2 or 3 inch widening. The design of the tubs is such that you end up welding in a flat sheet of metal, not a fancy contoured piece. Get under the car and look up into the wheel well and you should notice the frame rail sits to the inside of the tub and the top of the tubs where they are welded together is fairly uniform and flat. You're just moving the tub over enough to take advantage of the space that's available without cutting into the rail.

Good luck. Spend some time trying to get the widest tire up front that you can, too.

The leaf spring is an issue, hard to move :) and I do plan on tubbing (mini) too get the tire I want. So many companies make a kit to relocate the leaf springs as well as 4 link. Just researching

Heidts 4 link set up you can not mini tub so a 275 is max, Ride tech 4 link they said I could fit a 315 easily under it if I mini tub it, DSE I need a new gas tank to make it work etc.. Not sure about BMI still researching it

BMR Torque Arm
 

FWIW I'm able to run a 295/40/18 on my Firebird with plenty of room to go 305/315 without a minitub and it's completely bolt-on.

Any pictures of the wheels/tires underneath this set up? It looks really nice however I am looking at it and it is very tight especially without the mini wheel tubs. Thanks