Setting Toe
 

I'm doing this in my garage or driveway. What's the best backyard mechanic way to set the toe?

Invest in a pair of Toe Plates.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...0119/overview/

I've tried setting toe without toe plates and the extra friction screws up the adjustments. A toe change twists the tire and you need to free up that friction to have a good measurable setting. I haven't tried the multiple pieces of wax paper method. I also heard a sandwich of 10 pages of newsprint works.


I use turntables and if you have replaced tie rod ends and need a basic setup do this:
1 Center the steering wheel and lock it or tie it in place.
2 I use a two foot long laser level up against the LF tire and see where it's pointing to the rear on the rear tire. Place the level at axle height against the sidewall and aim at the rear tire at axle height.


3 Adjust the LF tie rod so the laser hits the edge of the tire. I go to the RF tire and adjust toe so it hits the same spot on the other rear tire edge. Important, place the SAME SIDE of the laser level against the RF tire or you will have an error. The toe may be off but it's now off an equal amount on each side.

4 Mark the tie rods with chalk or paint dab for indexing. Make all future adjustments the same amount on each side.
5 I use NASCAR aluminum toe plates and two tape measures to measure toe. You can use a piece of wood, angle iron or tube elevated 2.5" to 3" to miss the tire bulge & hit more of the sidewall. the tapes should be same distance apart as your tire height. Usually that's 26". That way your measurements are the same as actual toe on the tire.


If the laser level is out of your budget or you will only be doing this once. Try running a string from front tire to rear, placed against the front tire sidewall at axle height.

Setting Toe
 

So I got out there yesterday and duct taped a couple of straight 2x4s to the tire 3" above the ground and measured across in front and behind the tire at the width of the diameter of the tire. Measurement was exactly the same. So I guess 0 toe. I thought about turning one or both of the sleeves but decided to leave well enough alone. If it starts to wander when I drive it I will revisit the setting. I'll probably invest in a set of toe plates and see if that is any easier but for now I'll run it as is.

I had to flip the crossbar on the upper control arm to take out some of the camber. I got it down to about-1/4 degree and 3.5 degrees caster. I kno I could run a bunch more caster but I didn't feel like dicking with the shims anymore.

Settings
 

I bought a set of toe plates while I was in Reno last weekend.

David, what settings would you suggest for a street car?

Check out David's website or look at the previous post from 2 weeks ago in this section "alignment specs". There is a direct link to your very question from David.

Simplest thing to do is roll the car back and forth a bit and travel the suspension while rolling. This releases the friction you mention and puts the front end in its neutral position. You'll get a good measurement and works well at the track or in the shop

If you're in the shop and have a smooth floor, another option is get yourself four sheets of 12"x12"x0.060" aluminum, smear a very thin layer of grease on two of them and then lay the other two sheets on top of the grease (aligning the edges of course). These can be put under the front tires. Make your toe adjustment and travel the front suspension. Good measurements again. Store easily and last a long time. Late model team I worked on has had the same set for over 10 years.

If suspension is stock, a first gen needs to have a good amount of toe-in static because it toes out in bump (compression). I'd set it at 1/8 to 3/16" total toe in. Would probably use more toe in if you added tall ball joints and didn't address bump steer.



If you have reduced bump steer then you can run less toe in. If Bump steer was totally fixed, I'd run some toe out, maybe 1/8" to 1/4" for tight autocrossing. some toe out in bump is OK, it helps with Ackerman gain. Too much toe out and your car will pull left and right under hard braking.

Maybe I'm out of line here, but I use 50 gallon plastic trash bags from Home Depot. I put 2 under each wheel, lay them out nice and flat, just the way they come out of the box. One on top of the other, just be careful that you don't step on them before you get the car on top of them, they are as slick as ice and you'll take a fall. I can actually push the car sideways, while sitting on the bags. Make an adjustment, then bounce the car and it should be good. This is my experience on my concrete floor in my garage, my floor is epoxy coated.
I hope it helps? I never thought of this until I dropped one of these bags and stepped on it. My elbow hurt for a month, from the fall.

Timing!! I just literally asked this same question on another forum. Thank you. Albeit I'm looking at camber and caster also