stock block ??
 

How much power will a stock block hold ( 4 bolt main, 1970 block never touched) All the best parts are going into it .Want to make a 1000 rear wheel

If you are going to spend the money to put "the best" parts in it, you should buy a better block too. (Motown, Dart Little M, Brodix,...) $2,000, but 1000RWHP means somewhere around 1200 crank HP. Too much for a stock 4 bolt chevy small block. What RPM were you looking to spin it? That is also a big factor.

That's a very serious goal and not very cheap to accomplish. A stock GM block cannot handle that power goal for any length of time, go aftermarket. The money you'll have in it makes the aftermarket block cost very small in comparison.

Out of curiosity, why that power goal?

Jody

It could be done on a stock block... but probably not very reliably.

If I was going to try for that HP on a stock block for the street I would probably short fill the block and keep the bores as small as I possibly could, but it would be better full-filled and then you lose the streetability. Sonic check the bores for core shift & wall thickness. Good studs on the mains would be a must and I'd probably start with a 2-bolt block and install aftermarket billet steel splayed 4-bolt caps. Then cross my fingers and pray. :P

The stock block will also give up HP due to cylinder bore distortion & flex compared to an aftermarket block with thicker bores, and given the high cylinder pressures the thicker deck of an aftermarket block sure would be nice too.

As far as iron aftermarket blocks I like Dart & GM Bowtie. I don't think I'd recommend an aluminum block at that power level but Brodix is my aluminum block of choice.

I would go with a dart block,all the high hp stuff we build is all dart or donovan block,your block maybe untouched but that doesn't we it's sqaure or good,I have built some 1000 hp bbc stuff on a stock block before,but a sbc just has a real hard time taking it.

If you are spend for the best buy a block.

Aluminum would be the best,all your pro mod,pro stock,etc blocks are aluminum.but at 3500-4 g its kinda pricey for a street car.

Very true-- I should have said for a street car.

Correction though, Pro-Stock blocks are cast iron only by the rulebook.

Most TAD/TAFC stuff I've seen are billet aluminum blocks... definately not streetable in any way since they're dry.

If you can get over the cost, my only gripe with an aluminum gen-1 SBC on the street is you usually have to beat it into the owners head that there can be absolutely no high-rpm / high load duty until it's fully warm so the main clearances are at spec. The last aluminum street-duty SBC I helped with came back the first week for an oil pressure issue... it had goobered up bearings because the guy admitted to beating on the sucker just after starting it.

If it was race only it would have been built looser and it wouldn't have been a problem. The owner was warned to take it easy until the oil temp came up but he didn't listen.

Thanks for all your input !!! Its just for the sbc dart block is $4 k up here in canada I know its hard do build a pt car here because of the $ but back to the facts Iam only going to run about 10lbs of boost ( twin turbo t-6 ) just wanted to know when i crank it up will it hold note once in a blue moon not every day thanks :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Well, there's really one one way to find out...:fire:

Blown 353

I am not sure about nhra,but ihra is alumumin.thats what i was thinking of.