My wheels...
 

Got a call from Forgeline today.. fun stuff.

The previous owner ordered the wheels with polished centers then decided he didn't like that.

So, what did he do?

Pulled out all the fasteners and painted the centers grey. Then in an act of sheer genious put the fasteners back in and torqued them down to 80 ft-lbs.

The spec calls for 12 ft-lbs per a bolt. Man, can people do anything right?

Now I get to aquire all new hardware to be safe. lol.. lets see.. 44 grade-8 bolts per wheel times 4 wheels.. :willy:

Was tempted to upgrade to the titanium bolts for an extra $80 per wheel. Saves two pounds (when used with the jet nuts) per wheel.

For the centers I can go with a gun metal grey color that has a shine to it or a low gloss black. thoughts?

It's mandatory at HRE that you get new hardware. They won't re-use any of it for liability reasons, or so they tell me.

I like the color that you have now, Steve. Deep grey to charcoal.

To hold up I want powder paint rather than paint. For powder I can have a glossy deep grey metallic or a flatish black. For a flattish metallic grey I would have to paint and with how I plan to drive I don't think it would hold up.

I think HRE has that policy to sell more hardware ;)

I loved the color they were Steve. But if you're going to change color, change it to the manifold color. That would look so awesome on your car, as if it needed to look better. :hail:

Just my opinion but....
I would only do metallic if you intend on having a high gloss finish. A nonmetallic dark gray looks really nice when it's flat.

Flat Black never actually looks black in a lighted environment, only when you add the gloss does it create enough contrast between highlight and shadow to make it "almost" black. Bottom line is, I agree with Scott. :thumbsup:

Steve, I would try to match the color you did your valve covers and supsension components in. I think that would add a nice touch. However I wouldn't do a gloss, maybe flat or semi glass powder coat. My $.02 :thumbsup:

Wow...I'm really surprised that the fasteners didn't yield at 80 foot pounds, even if they are G8.

What are they, 1/4-28?

....I'm also surprised he would even be able to have the hex socket heads withstand the 80 ft/lbs, without deforming/stripping out.

Are you sure that he didn't put the fasteners in at the recommended torque, but with locktite, or similar? I could see that requiring an immense amount of torque, to break them loose...maybe that's what HRE experienced?

Well, the wheels WERE a flat gray metallic color. The prob is I want powder paint and they don't do flat metallics (doesn't hold up). Than means it's a glossy grey metallic or a flat black.

I though the low-gloss black would look killer. Especially with the titanium bolts and I get a 2-lb per a wheel weight savings.

No, they saw no locktight on the threads. Some of the fasteners were a bit deformed and it took 80 ft-lbs to break them free. So maybe they were tightened down to only 60.. either way they were WAY over 12 ft-lbs.. lol

I like that color, but I'm not sure on a wheel.. in bright sun it has some blue in it that doesn't show up in the engine bay and such.