1970 mustang suspension
 

I am pro-toring my cousins 1970 mustang coupe . I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to use for the rear suspension. Want to get away from the leafs. Any response is appreciated, Thanks Josh

Bolt-in independent rear suspension
 

We are also doing a 69-70 mustang in my shop and we are using an independent rear suspension that bolts right in. We can help you get one if you want. The cost is about $10K.
Thanks
Mike

Mustang
 

Give Patrick a call at
http://www.griggsracing.com/
They are not cheap but they have alot of race experience. look at the gr350 stuff and gallery

If you can wait a while DSE is building a Mustang version of their Quadra-link
http://www.detroitspeed.com/projectp...luter_main.htm
Ask for Trent

Josh,

What is your time frame?

We are developing a rear three link suspension for the Mustang at the current time. It should be available by early spring. We currently offer a Watts Link for the early Mustangs....

http://www.evolutionmsport.com/evmCa...products_id=38

The complete Three Link rear suspension will incorporate a Frame Mounted Watts Link, lower control arms, an upper link, rear adjustable stabilizer bar and bell crank driven coil-over system. The system will be bolt-in and will not require any modifications to the vehicle structure, beyond a few drilled holes. The system will have an aluminum link upgrade option and will be available in various "kit" forms.

Let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks...Mike

Josh,

Check out this thread:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=7824

Thanks...Mike

Why so quick to get rid of the rear leaf spings? There is LOT's of proven technology for use with rear leaf sping performance suspensions in Mustangs. Look to several of the top notch Vintage Race prep companies for more information. There are a LOT of fast Mustangs with leaf rear suspensions.

i have done this and there are one thing to pat attention to! and that is io either mount the longitudinal controll arms in the transmission tunnel (so they are in line with the shafts thru the inner LCA bearings.. or bount the center aection in rubber, otherwise stuff will eventually break, not to mention bind... also the half- shafts must be level when driving normally, as the shafts have u-joints and not homokinetic joints so they generate noise if they are not level.. other than that its an awesome rear..

here is another one to check out

http://www.rrs-online.com/3linkproducts.php