$50.00 Paint Job
 

I think I'm going to finally try the "$50.00 Paint Job" on my T-Bird and see how it comes out. One question, the car was painted with a basecoat/clearcoat and the clearcoat is flaking off. Someone told me that the paint has "oxidized" and I need to take it down to meatl before I paint it. Is this true or can I just sand off the clear and paint over the basecoat?

John

What is used in a "$50 paint job"?

you don't need to go to metal. you need to remove the bad/oxidized clear.

and as far as the "thin the living hell out of the rustoleum and waste 8 days rolling it on/wetsanding between coats" paintjobs, damn people big lots or harbor freight have $30 spray guns and it cuts the time involved in actually putting on the paint from a week to half a day. you'd spend more money on sandpaper to wetsand all the rolled on coats than to buy a cheap HVLP gun and some 1x2's and plastic to build a temporary paint booth.

Thanks Pat but I want to experiment with this and see if it actually works without a spray gun!
End of the day and I have to say that I have a new found respect for Paint & Body! I thought I would start on the hood and see how it turns out. I guess I'm going to have to spring for a buffer! I bought enough supplies to paint the whole car but a quart of the paint is probably more than enough to paint one car! Total cost for materials and equipment:

Ryobi Orbital Sander - $77.23
Sandpaper for Orbital Sander - $6.79
Rustoleum Professional Black/1 Gal. - $36.18
4" Hot Dog Rollers(5 pack) and Applicator/ w Hot Dog Roller on it- $8.59
Mini paint pans(3) - $3.73
Wet Dry Sandpaper Packs 320/400/600 - $9.89
Tack Cloth(2 packs) - $1.98

Total(So far)- $144.39

Got all the clearcoat off and smoothed and feathered any raised or low areas as best I could!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1.../SandFront.jpg

Masked, Taped and Tacked! Ready for paint! I didn't prime it since the original thread said primer was not necessary!
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...dPassenger.jpg

1st Coat
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...CoatDriver.jpg

Many people have commented on what they felt was the ideal Paint to Mineral Spirits ratio. As I was mixing it seems that a 70% Paint/30% Mineral Spirits is a good mix. I guess we'll see but I'm glad I went a little heavier on the paint since the hood of my car has many contours and if I would have mixed it any thinner it would have run all over the place. I guess the best way to describe the mix I did was to make it a little thicker than milk. I was also worried about whatever excess paint I had would dry up along with having to constantly be cleaning the roller so I just used ziploc bags to keep them moist!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ntPreserve.jpg

Next up.......color sanding.......Oh Goodie!!!:rolleyes:
John

Wow....lol interesting:yes:

Did you get some wheels on that thing yet?!?

Paul

Waiting to get the Disc Brake conversion on and then:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...ase/CoyC51.jpg

John

i do not think you are gonna want to color sand that, i doubt it will work like the article said.

Why do you say that?

John

for one there is no hardner in the paint, 2- all the different levels from feathering out will more then likely burn thru, then you will be re doing it. if your gonna roll it out, roll it out and call it a day. its just gonna make more work for yourself
goodluck

So you think it's better to roll out all the coats then sand? Don't sand in between?

BTW I checked it this morning and it's pretty hard. I tried the fingernail test and the paint won't scratch off!

John