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Old 08-01-2007, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvawgn
i'm in the process of getting a motor built for the wagon but i will eventially want to throw a super charger on it.
so my question is, if you were building a supercharged motor, 383 or 406 out of a 350 or a 400 gm block( i can not afford an after market block) to run on max 10lbs of boost on a primarily street driven car, what kind of facts do you need to know before starting your build?
i'm trying to figure out what kind of bottom end i need, parts and pieces, splayed caps, super light rotating assembly vs. regular 4340, 6in rod vs. 5.7in rod, which piston, bearings.

please tell me the info you need to know, thanks
splayed caps are nice depending on the block, but not necessary at that level. I would definitely do ARP studs on the bottom end. On the 400's I've done I do a partial block fill which helps keep things from moving, haven't had any cooling issues either.

As far as a rotating assembly I've had good luck with the more reasonably priced Eagle and Scat 4340 stuff with good rod bolts, at that power level. I do like to use a designated blower piston with a thicker top and lowered ring pack. That also usually gets me away from 6" rods, unless they fit without getting into the oil ring. I like the plasma moly rings, file-fit, so I can get the end gaps right and they seat immediately. The Eagle/Scat cranks generally need H bearings (I use Clevite from Speed Pro, TRW, etc.), made the wider fillet radius in those cranks. They're harder than the standard P clevites, and work great in a performance application.

I would recommend a blower-specific cam also, with the wider lsa like 114 or so, as they'll build boost faster which is what you want in a good street build.

Jody
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