First piece of advice I learned, although you can't always do it: make up your mind up front and build it ONCE. It's much cheaper!
Anyways, other pointers:
Piston coatings are your friend-- especially with boost.
Get the head & block smooth enough so you can run MLS gaskets. Most out of the box heads have the required surface finish and a machine shop with a decking machine in good condition with a knowledgeable operator will be able to put the required surface finish/flatness on the deck.
A BBC crank snout is a good idea. The BBC snout will take the loads of the supercharger much better. It's a small cost up front. Most of the time SBC crank snouts don't break, but it's much cheaper to buy a crank with the BBC snout up front rather than have an "oops" down the road and then have to pull everything back apart for a new crank.
High-quality fasteners are a must.
For crank & rods, at a reasonable price point it's hard to beat Scat. Scat is my first choice as they tend to have better machining quality than Eagle. A lightweight rotating assembly has all the same benefits it does in a naturally aspirated deal, so if you have the bucks go for it... but avoid the super light pistons.
Remember to run wider ring gaps with boost. Some guys forget. Most of the time you can get away with it... worst case you'll pinch a ring. You might also want to consider an extra .0005" piston to bore clearance. Keep the quench tight as it will help avoid detonation.
If it's going to see road-race duty then I'd highly recommend modding the block for piston oil sprayers. Not really needed for street duty but they do help.
Buy as much head as you can afford and pay very close attention to I/E ratio and exhaust port flow. If it's going to see prolonged hard use then I'd also recommend inconel exhaust valves.
Work with someone who is very experienced with supercharged engines and have them spec out a cam grind for you. There's a lot of power to be had or lost in cam selection. A good guy will want to know EVERYTHING about your specific combo before making a cam recommendation. If he doesn't pester you for lots of information, you're probably talking to the wrong person.
Induction: Assuming you are speaking of running a centrifugal supercharger, if going blowthrough carb do not skimp on the carb or the hat. There are many hats on the market. Only a few work well. It's a bit simpler going with EFI, but you have a couple options. Tunnel-ram style (holley stealthram, custom sheetmetal, etc) or a modded single plane with either a 4-hole TB or an elbow and a monoblade. All work well. For price/function, the Holley Stealthram is pretty hard to beat, it's cheap and works well. For a good cost/benefit ratio it's tough to beat a Victor Junior EFI with a Wilson Elbow and a Monoblade TB and from what I gather talking to guys the single plane/monoblade has very even airflow distribution.
Fuel system: remember to allocate enough money for it. With either blowthrough or EFI you're looking at a return-style system.
Finally, you didn't mention exactly what kind of supercharger you had in mind.... that will influence the target compression ratio. For instance, a good "street" compression ratio for a centrifugally supercharged engine is in the 9.0-9.5:1 range. It's a good mix of off-boost combustion efficiency and is still low enough to tolerate decent amounts of boost. I'm just over 9.25:1 and run 15.6 psi of boost.
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
Last edited by Blown353; 08-02-2007 at 12:25 PM.
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