In an effort to save a fellow Pro-tourer some coin here's my opinion:
If you have the SPAL dual 11-inch fan you should be able to make it cool as well or better than the Ford unit.
Here's a few tips:
-make sure the fan shroud is touching the core and covering as much as possible
-I like to use strips of rubber so the fan shroud can touch the radiator core
-this ensures all air is being pulled through the radiator, not around the fan shroud
-place the condensor as close to the radiator core as you can (or use foam strips like the factory does)
-this also keeps air moving through the core
-use a high-end radiator
-BeCool is ok
-I prefer Ron Davis (
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/), C&R (
http://www.crracing.com/), or Performance Rod and Custom (
http://www.prchotrod.com/)
-DO NOT listen to "that set-up will only handle 600HP"
-it's all about how efficiently your cooling system can extract heat from the water. It has nothing to do with how much power you make. (generally speaking the more power, the hotter the engine runs, but it's a poor way of gaging what you need.)
-if you water pump is moving the water, and your radiator is removing the heat from the water, it will work
-removing heat depends on thermal efficiency. This is dictated by airflow, how long you hold the water in the radiator, and how efficient the radiator design is
I mention all of this only because I happen to have the attached graph. This is a graph supplied by SPAL illustrating the Ford unit as tested on SPAL's equipment. If this is correct, simply replacing the fan will not solve the problem as the cfm rating of the Ford unit is actually under the dual 11 (especially under static conditions)
I'm not bashing the Ford fan. It is huge and pulls a lot of air. However, I'd hate to see you drop a few hundred bucks only to find it was something else.