Quote:
Originally Posted by ragtop396
J2Speed&Custom - I do have evercoat underneath for the replacement quarter skins. Other than that some minor filler on hood and trunk like. None in the new door skins and fenders. I shot 4 med coats of SEM HB and started block sanding with 120g using a 12" Durablock and Round Durablock for those curved areas like the cowl hood. I will putty the lows but do have some areas where I've hit metal. I plan to shoot another coat or two and resand up to 320g. The last coat will be reduced as a sealer, then wet sanded with 400-600g. I plan to shoot BC (prob 2-4 coats or until properly covered, 2 coats CC, wet sand hood and trunklid, shoot white stripes, then 2 last coats of CC, wet sand, buff, etc....
The only thing I'm not sure of is do I need to keep adding HB to bring the rest of the car up to the high metal spots, or knock em down, putty and reshoot...
This is the one area I'm taking "very" seriously as I want to body STRAIGHT!! I've been working on this car for years and don't want to blow it at the end...
HEY 2BAD4YA, boy don't make me come out to the sticks and put some good ole Chevelle woopa** on ya......
|
What grit did you sand the plastic filler to? It needs to be sanded to at least 180 or you going to see the scratches in the finish when it soaks out. Any high spots you have need to be hammered/dollied down. The goal is to have no breakthroughs in the primer before you paint. The straighter the metal and body the better the finished result so take your time.
Sounds like a good plan for color and clear with the stripes. Depending on the clear your using you can tape shoot the white and reclear without sanding. And 1 coat of clear is enough to put the stripes on. You'll have better luck not feeling a paint edge with 3 coats of clear versus 2 coats. Also if you want it "straight" the clear is going to need to be sanded with at least 800grit. You'll spend as much time first sanding the clear as you did the primer.
