I'd just open up the rotors to fit the studs (or let Frank do it since he so graciously offered) and then countersink the backside of the wheel if necessary. I would think that with the rotors in place, the wheel shouldn't have any issues since it'll be moved outward by the thickness of the hat, but maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture.
I know that with several of the more popular ARP options, the knurl/shoulder length of the studs do tend to protrude through the rear axle flanges. The studs you pictured appear to be an OE replacement stud, but I can't quite make out the three digit number on the head to cross reference it to its application. Stock steel drum hubs up front will see the same thing...the nice thing is that most aluminum hubs have sufficiently thicker flanges that it's typically a non-issue.
Tobin
KORE3
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