The frames on these cars are wet noodles with the ends floating in space.
I have a few gbodys.
On my driver 83 Malibu Wagon, the front triangulation braces, fender to rad and radiator X brace were all installed at the same time.
It drove like a different car, with the slightest turn of the wheel,it turned. Had a solid feel.
The frame flexes where the steering box mounts , these stopped this.
It also had severe wheel hop problem.
Later installed the rear poly bushings and Class II trailer hitch, stopped 95% of it.
Again felt more solid and my back glass/tailgate rattles all but went away.
Have since added no-hop bars,she just hooks and goes now.
I can hit "35 MPH turns" at almost double that.
I just found the "GP" brace and long cowl to rad braces which will be being added as soon as they arrive.
On my 78 Cutlass race car, I did some testing while apart.
The frame/body tub was put on jackstands, measured various point, removed one jackstand , loaded with 250# of weight (ME) the frame and measured flex.
I added various braces and redid the whole procedure. Some areas the flex was cut by more then 1/2.
This car leaves wheels up (1.40z 60 ft) and straight. Goes 10.00 at 131 mph on what is more or less a "stock suspension".
So far I have found no downside for either a street/handling car or a drag car.
Whew, hope that helps.
Last edited by Rusty G; 01-24-2009 at 06:59 PM.
|