Paint thickness is measured in mils or thousandths of an inch. OEM paints are typically 4 to 8 mils thick. With basecoat/clearcoats, the basecoat is approximately 1 to 2 mils thick, which is approximately the thickness of a piece of typing paper. The clearcoat is about 2 to 4 mils thick. The primer is another 1 to 2 mils.
If a panel has been repainted, paint thickness will increase. If too much paint is already on the vehicle, it may have to be removed prior to refinishing. Paint buildup should be limited to no more than 12 mils. The OEM finish and one refinish usually equal just under 12 mils. Exceeding this paint thickness could cause cracking in the new finish. Chemical stripping or blasting would be needed to remove the old paint buildup.
I hope this answers your question.
In short when applying base coats, your coats are not heavy wet coats, they should be medium coats, repeated until you have achieved coverage, and a consistant look. What I mean by that is you have to be cafeful when spraying any metallics so that you do not end up with Tiger Stripes, or Paint Mottling.
Clear coat is to be sprayed medium to wet coats, but this is where the fine line comes in, you want to spray clear to the point of running, but not running. You have to push the limit.
Reducers and spray technique play a huge roll in painting a car or any part of a car, practice, practice, and good quality paint are key to having a great paint job.
The idea of clear coating a car, letting it dry, resanding it in 600/800 grit to flatten the flutter out of the panel, is the way to achieve a stunning paint job. It can be done with out this process, but when you are painting a custom paint job IE: Kandy, Metal Flake, Crushed Glass, it is a must to level the paint out for that show room finish.
The reclear will take a few more hours, and cost more, do to the added hours of sanding, masking and painting. But it is well worth the end result.
Just my 2 cents.
Aaron
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