Suck it up - have a pro do the whole job. You're not going to save any money doing only part of the job. The rear end has to be dropped out of there - cut - new ends welded on it - mini tubs etc... probably the spring perches need to be moved etc... so not sure what part you're going to "save on" doing the last few bolts... and if you take it somewhere - and the take it all apart -- and do the 'work' - how you going to get it home etc without a functioning rear end...
Just my .03 worth. Have them do the work. SANS painting etc. You then can bring it home - jack it up - take out the rear end and do nice paintwork and have it back together in a couple weekends.
THAT -- or buy a Currie (or someone else's) housing etc all done - narrowed mounts on etc...
You can - with a few simple tools - whack the inner wheel tubs and widen them with a new strip of sheet metal... Use a thin metal ruler and mark a nice line where you want to cut - use a cut off wheel (air or electric) and whack that line - then drill out the spot welds (using a spot weld cutter) around the rim of the wheel tub where it's spotted to the truck floor.... take that part out -- mark and cut the floor where you need it - keeping the same lines (you can follow the same shape exactly and just move it over 2 inches or whatever you need.... you can even "trace" the part of the tub you just cut out... then "FILL" the space / gap with some new sheet metal.... Doing it this way keeps the stock attachment points etc around the fenders (no repaint) and is actually pretty simple -- although backbreaking work due to the location. If you're not building a "show car" -- you are capable of doing decent work if you care enough to. You can use some seam sealer where you moved stuff and paint it or whatever.
Now - some of these tub jobs are going to start to interfere with your back seat etc -- so you'll want to make sure this is something you really want to tackle -- and are able to see it through $$ and time wise.... It's like remodeling -- it's never that simple! LOL
|