As you move the top of the strut outward you are adding positive camber. You can adjust some of this at the spindle to strut bolts - I think, but not much. The only way then to get more negative camber is to move the lower control arm mount outward, which then affects the track width.
As far as camber gain, the suspension will move along the axis of the strut, so the more "straight up and down" for lack of a better description the strut is the less the wheel and tire will lean in at the top in bump ie: camber gain.
I know from messing with Fox Body Mustangs that they suffer from minimal negative camber gain in bump. If you see people Autocrossing them they typically build in a ton of static camber to negate this fact - not good on tires for street driving though.
Does that help? - Anyone else can feel free to chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. It wouldn't be the first time. I'm not an expert in suspsion design by any stretch of the imagination.
Thanks,
Brandon
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