Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro1969
#@$% #**& !!!!!!!!!!!
i dont know what to do, issue is back, i thought i was able to do it, but i cant...
i called blake at killer customs, $90.00 an hour, may take a few hours, plus travel time, hate to do it, but i cant afford to pay over 200.00 for something that should be done so easy! I even called a local automotive place, and they told me they dont want to get involved in that, and actually hung up on me! i removed both starters and car is just sitting there,, kills me to see it like this.. dont know what i can do!
I used that one that looks like this, and its hard to measure when the engines in the car, i have less than a foot of space to work under, and pinion is hidden
http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/33/a1/d814_1_sbl.JPG
The one i have that looks like this (below), the shim that moves the pinion close and further to the flywheels (so that i have a gap of .100 inch, i cant even get the thinest filler gauge in between! and i have already installed the provided shim
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/...91066258_L.jpg |
This small starter uses different mounting bolts! Be very careful in matching starter bolts to the starter!
That small GM "metric" starter is first off, not a good starter, it lacks power, and it uses different diameter bolt shanks than the older large starters. They are still 3/8" coarse thread in the block but lengths and shank diameters are slightly different between that one and the old standard large starters. Use the wrong bolts, and the starter will twist after a few starts and will no longer be 90 degrees to the flywheel and bind. The large and small OEM GM starters require bolts with knurl where the bolt engages the block.
A tilton type mini starter should use knurled shank bolts too.