Quote:
Originally Posted by ItDoRun
Actually, I had the front sheet metal on the car and rough fitted last week. It fit really well. I used several areas to measure from. The four main points I started with were the 2 dowel pin holes located in the front subrame mount. I also used the two 5/8" holes at the front of the rear frame rails (same holes you're talking about). I measured front to back on each side and am within an 1/8". I then measure diagonally and am still within an 1/8". I then dropped a plumbob from the core support holes in the front of the subframe and measured diagonally again to the holes in the rear frame rails. Actually this measurement is within 1/16".
I tried to check wheel base, but like I mentioned, I have no rear suspension in the car yet. I tried to get the most accurate 12:00 position on the quarter lip and dropped a plumbob from there. I then dropped a plumbob from the center of the lower ball joint and measured front to back. The drivers side measures 108-3/8" and the passenger side is dead on 108" which is what it was SUPPOSED to be from GM. I figure since I'll be running an adjustable 4 link, the 3/8" probably won't matter too much since I'll be able to move things around in the back.
My biggest concern right now is that before I started this build, I had installed some LS1 brakes on the front of the car. Because of the rim, I had to use a 1/2" spacer and of course it pushed the rim out further. When I did this, the passenger side wheel stuck out considerably more than the driver side. I personally, had never removed the front subframe and who knows if it was square to begin with. With the drum barkes and no wheel spacer, I never noticed it.
So, I need to make sure the subframe is not off left to right before I weld the connectors in.
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With the new 4 link rear you will be able to adjust A LOT of things in the rear suspension and get it dialed. That 3/8" shouldn't make any difference by the time it is all settled in.
For the sub frame, if you measured all of those points and it is looking as good as it is then you should be ok with the wheels fitting right and looking symetrical as far as width goes compared to the fenders. Now if the core support or some other structure up front is bent and throwing the fender positions off you will have to correct that. But you said the mock up looked good at this point.
Do you have any way to finish the entire front end mock up with tires, suspension, brakes, inner fenders ....that will show everything and you will be able to fix any issues prior to paint.