Can you tell if the binding is coming from the rubber or poly type bushings in the arms? If it is then I wouldnt worry too much. Im not sure how you are checking for bind.
Are you raising the body and letting gravity and the weight of the rear axle housing determine the bind point. If so put some extra weight on the rear end if you can. I have threaded sleeves sunk in my concrete floor so I can screw in eye bolts or whatever fastener to do some odd stuff. Ive used the threaded sleeves in the concrete for a few odd projects. Like strapping an axle housing down while jacking up the body of a car. And I can do one side at a time or both sides to show vertical travel.
But try to force (not a good picture, forcing the suspension) the suspension through its entire travel. And I say force meaning forcefully taking up any rubber bind that gravity cant give you a good idea on what exactly is binding.
And I like to be able to lock down the rear housing during a build to check for roll bind. That is pretty critical, specially if you are binding at 6" of vertical travel.
And I have to add. When I lock it down I dont really force anything. I creep up on the bind, constantly looking at the mechanical parts to make sure Im not running into a metal on metal bind issue. Im not looking to bend anything. Just trying to work the bushings like they would be worked on the road.
A vertical bind can be caused by a few things.
If the bushings are of a standard type. Where the inner metal sleeve is bonded to the rubber bushing, and the trailing arm is also bonded to the rubber bushing then thats a normal bind. You are twisting the rubber as it was designed.
But if your trailing arms are using floating poly bushings which dont grab the arms and inner sleeve then you should have alot more rotational movement.
Sounds like you have the side to side measurements down so you arent binding due to an offset of the arms.
So my question? What type of bushings are you using? JR
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