View Single Post
  #52  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:01 AM
BRIAN BRIAN is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Problems with gaps is it doesn't matter if the panels are NOS, early cars were never designed with the gaps of todays show cars. You can pull or align all day long it isn't going to happen. Then add aftermarket parts and it only gets worse.

Not into the pie cutting of a panel on a a stock bodied car as it creates other metal issues within the panel besides the edge you are trying to fix. Guys can swear they metal work everything to perfection but due to the design of a doors edge it is just about impossible to so. How do you hammer and dolly a double walled rolled over edge? Yes you can work to lessen the filler but filler will be needed if you want that type of panel to panel fit. Putting heat into the edge by welding causes warping that is very difficult to work in that area. Go slow and build up only as needed. You will be surprised how far into the panel the heat gets.

As far as tig or mig?? Use what you have as they both have downsides. Tig welding puts in more heat but is easier to finish. Problem is as described above you aren't able to work the back edge. Mig is brittle but will build quicker and if done right put in less heat. Take a piece of copper and clamp to edge. It will only require minor filling on the rear.

The main thing is to make sure your edge is made out of metal and not built up out of plastic filler. You can swipe lead on both panels giving the ultimate finish and less initial metal work as lead hides more and is somewhat stronger.

Go slow with the filler and sanding as you don't want to take the lines out of a car. Dry sand and you can see a line as you are going. Hard type blocks are great but to finish last pass of sanding you will need a block with some give otherwise you will have witness lines in your paint. At that point you are taking out sanding imperfections not highs and lows.


Good luck
Reply With Quote