Quote:
Originally Posted by The WidowMaker
the problem i have with 3* down, is 3* compared to what? where on the frame do you measure? rocker? door sill? what happens when you put it on jack stands and its not supported by the tires and your rake changes? what happens if you change the stance later?
start with parallel, and if that works and youre working angles are pretty low, leave it. if they are not, you may need to point the pinion down to get your working angles in an acceptable range. although its different than what youre commonly told, most dont run the ride heights that we do.
heres a site to check out. you can download a free trial and input all of your information, and it will tell you where to move what.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ons.htm#1Piece
Tim |
Tim ---
RELATIVE TO THE CHASSIS BEING LEVEL - Suspension loaded. These settings we're talking about are pinion angle relative to the Engine. So if you start with a level chassis - set the motor down relative to that - and the pinion angle relative to the setting of the motor.
Now --- from there.... there are different opinions and settings for different suspensions i.e., 4 link vs leaf springs etc. Leaf springs will allow the nose of the pinion to "crawl" upwards... so in days of yor - a pinion might have been set down 4* if you were drag racing etc - and as you applied power it would rise to be say -- down 2* or maybe even 0*...
The whole thing is about angle cancelation - and having an angle difference so that the needle bearings in the caps spin. Too straight and they won't spin and you'll wear 'em out in short order -- AND -- the u joint needs to "wobble" (that may be the wrong use of the word) relative to each other.
I hope that I explained this correct -- Frank -- Jump in there if I didn't. I also agree with Frank -- motor down 4* and pinion down 1/2* in these 4 link rear ends... they don't crawl much. My Jim Meyer chassis - and the Art Morrison Chassis I'm working on right now - set the motor down 3* (observed).
There are lots of 'old skool' trick and things that were done and people have kind of stuck with them. For instance - if I'm tightening the u bolts (billet caps in my case) I watch the split washer just go flat - and give it another 1/4 turn. Never had one come loose yet - and I haven't worn out any U joints either. It's just the way I've always done it because that's the way I was taught...
