Quote:
Originally Posted by ccracin
Greg,
In most of the research I did on the triangulated 4-link the angled bars should be at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the frame rail. Less than that and you are significantly reducing the lateral locating ability of the system. Post up some pictures, I am intrigued with this one.  |
CHAD -- Thanks for that info - I would have done some research and probably found this info - but it's what I was looking for without trying to become a suspension master!
I will check all of the dimensions.
TODD -- I agree about the bind. He had failed to mention that little ditty when we first started talking about this. That was a big AH HA...
I'm going to have to check all of the
linked convergence quandrys in this install!
This is one of those "helping a buddy" things that I actually ENJOY - I always learn something from it - and I have a brain that is wired to solve (or try anyway). This is a really really beautiful car - that was home built - including the paint (over a 10 year period) = where the owner/builder was never truly satisfied with the end result and is now going back and upgrading and sorting out a list of "issues". He saw my 8 stack and went crazy... had to have it - which led to a new AutoRad radiator and core support (as long as he was there)... and then we started to work on his brakes (that didn't work at all)... he has 6 piston Wilwoods and the front rotors had never seen pressure from the pads! Serious! Ditched the vacuum pump (he hated the noise) and P/B booster - installed a 7/8 Wilwood manual - changed the pedal ratio - and bingo! Got that fixed. I don't think that BOTH sides of the caliper were ever bled... Now on to the "wiggle"...