[NOT A TA]

My recommendation for using an older model car as a track car is, "Keep It Simple" The more complicated things are, the more things there are that can fail. It only takes one thing to break or have a bad electrical connection or whatever to put you in the pits.

You're at the track to drive, not hunt down electrical gremlins or play with laptops trying to reprogram an ECU. You're not there to fix oil leaks on a turbo or get the hydroboost to function properly. I have missed one track session on track days 5 times due to various mechanical things. A couple were preventable and some not but they add up to a days track time. Since it ends up averaging me about $1,000.00 per track day to run the car I figure I've spent over a grand sitting in the pits. And my cars reliable! I've seen other people make one session and miss the rest of the day!!Anything you can do that will eliminate potential falures will let you use your track money where it should be used, on track!

Stick to the basics! A basic engine with road race oiling system and an old fashioned carb, simple fuel delivery system, good brakes, basic suspension upgrades, the best tires. Don't try to reinvent the race car, just use what others have used for years with success. Track time ends up being expensive, you don't want to spend it in the pits, you want a car that will go out and take a beating all day. Not the fastest one lap wonder or technical electronic marvel, just a car that works.

Every time you go to put a piece on the car, think about the simplest strongest most durable way to do it. Eliminate any unnecessary plumbing, electrical connections, etc. They're just places for possible failures. Don't install things you don't know you need. The car will tell you what it needs as you start taking it out and get better as a driver on track. Choice of welding or bolting? Look it over carefully and most likely you'll weld it because a nut and bolt can vibrate loose. There's a reason race cars have to have nuts wired. Speaking of nuts never re-use a nylock nut or torque nut, always use a new one! I learned the hard way on both.

I know this is contrary to the Pro-Touring philosophy, however, you asked about a "track car". Not about a PT car that might (or might not) hit a track or autocross once in a while. A track car needs to be ready to be pushed to it's limits for 2.5 hours a day at the track. Thats full throttle/threshold brake/full throttle/threshold brake/full throttle for over 2 hours while being tossed around corners between throttle and brake!! Thats a lot to ask of an old car so keeping it simple reduces the posibilities of being sidelined.

Listen to Dane, He has a 1st gen and goes to the track. He found what works and some things that don't. Oh, and get a good little simple video camera like a Go Pro or something. It's fun to see what you did on track later.