Quote:
Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms
I would be very carefull full welding the seams on the subframe. Heat will warp the you know what out of it, and it will provide very little benefit except looking cool all smoothed. If you do weld it up solid, do it in stiches 1 to 2 inch at a time and bounce from side to side to allow cooling beween welds.
|
Understood, I've made some wavy stuff before
Do you think it would be worth the trouble of pulling a finished car apart to do this mod - well, I suppose I could do 75% of it without pulling the subframe? I was also thinking about some forward struts to help stiffen the front - worth the trouble?
Quote:
|
As for mods, IF your using aftermarket control arms a simple re drill of the upper control arm mounting holes on the subframe below the factory holes will improve you camber gain. And a set of geometry corrected control arms will increase caster.
|
My only question here is who's arms are "geometry corrected"? The actual changes made by the various aftermarket arm builders seems to be a secret! They list the material they are made of, which bushings and balljoints they use but they don't specifically list what the change in geometry will be (did I miss it somewhere?). Reading many other posts in this forum it seems you would be the man to ask
Quote:
|
A good set of coil springs like Hotchkis, some good shocks (Hotchkis are great NON adjustable on a budget, A hollow sway bar (Hotchkis again) and a 600 steering gear, some tie rod stiffeners, and you have a really nice frame for $2500!
|
That all sounds good. So you recommend the 600 box over a rack?