Quote:
Originally Posted by exwestracer
Yes, figure out the maximum effective length you can get for the upper links with 60deg included angle and build the lowers from there.
If it were me, I'd buy one of those heavy duty steel rear covers they make for the off-road guys and weld the upper link mounts to that...
I just typed the explanation for the direction of the links over on pro-touring, so feel free to have a look... http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73355 The main issue I see with your project is fenderwell clearance looks pretty tight. I think I'd want as little axle movement as possible.
As far as the vertical link separation, it all depends on how hard you are realistically going to hammer the thing... Obviously if you mount the uppers at the top of the diff, you've got some separation built in already. I normally try to keep the lowers feeding directly into the main frame rails, as they are taking ALL the drive force from the axle, so your ride height for the frame would come into play with how far your lower housing mounts are off the ground.
If you decide to go with a straight (4 bar) setup as others have suggested, IMO you have way too much tire (not enough room) for a panhard bar locator. |
Your correct, but since he has the big wheels he can make the panhard bracket go out into the wheel to increase the length. The frame rails will be pretty narrow due to the wide tires so the angled upper links will be pretty short to have any kind of angle especially if the he does not want to build off the housing.
But either way, both methods will require creative packaging for either the upper links or panhard bar
Chassisworks makes a rear clip that is a nice tri-4, You can buy the links and the axle housing and save your self a bunch of time. They might make a jig to install these parts on a dana 60 housing. We have used this product on quite a few different cars with good results.
http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attach...ons/916241.pdf