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Old 01-30-2006, 05:54 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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Definately run a relay. A Bosch 30 amp will do nicely and are under $5. Run 8 gauge (minimum) wire back to the pump to minimize voltage loss, and pull the power from a source capable of flowing enough current (i.e. pull from the back of the alternator or battery or where ever your main distribution block is, and don't forget a fuse.) Stick the relay in the trunk where it is easy to swap out in the future. If you want to put it under the car, you can get a weatherproof relay and weatherproof connector from Hella.

Also, -10 on the feed line is way overkill, -8 (1/2") will be more than adequate. -10 or -12 on the suction side of the the pump is a very good idea but once you're out of the pump -8 will be more than enough. Since you're carbed make sure you run the same diameter return line as well so you can get the pressure down low enough. Don't forget all the usual tips: avoid restrictive 90 degree pipe fittings (use the swept tube AN connectors instead), route away from heat and where not possible use heat shields and insulating wrap, etc.

I would also suggest going with the pump speed controller right off the bat to avoid any potential issues. Being stuck on the side of the road because of vapor lock really bites.

When I was running my setup carb'd with an SX pump (flowrates similar to the A1000) I never had a vapor lock issue even on hot summer days. Your mileage may vary though, as evidence points to the Aeromotive A1000 being rather prone to vapor lock.

You can also install a fuel cooler on the return line after the regulator for extra insurance.

Troy
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1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, Vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 01-30-2006 at 06:13 PM.
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