Thread: Brake Line
View Single Post
  #8  
Old 07-02-2011, 08:25 AM
GregWeld's Avatar
GregWeld GregWeld is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AriDzona
Posts: 20,741
Thanks: 504
Thanked 1,079 Times in 387 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
OK, so to clear up the mystery, I'm the other board member who talked to Chad. Let me clear up the misconceptions as well. Here are at least my facts.

1) I used the proper line. I specifically had line shipped from a specific vendor to insure that I was getting the correct thin wall, seamless, annealed tubing. A vendor that top builders use. A vendor more than a thousand miles from me. Because I wanted to insure I was doing everything right, knowing from the start that Stainless is a bit more difficult.

2) My flare tool is the "most expensive" hydraulic type flare tool, and I have the ability to do flares on pretty much any size, and on both standard and -AN type flares. Single and double. Again - an attempt to insure that I was doing everything right.

3) I am very careful to not work harden the tubing when cutting. I do not use a tubing cutter. Ever.

4) I carefully and meticulously debur the inside of the tubing.

5) I have an Imperial Bender for my stainless line.

With all of this said, I did not make the argument to Chad that stainless is impossible. ALL of my tubing (fuel, brakes, power steering, hydraulic clutch) is stainless. What I said is that it simply isn't worth the hassle. It's frankly a poor material having poor working qualities that the pro IMHO just doesn't match the con. It's expensive, difficult, frustrating, and more time consuming. And the up side? It looks nice.

Here's the truth about stainless. Even with all of what I've written, the FACT is that it's more difficult to work with. Larger line segments of 3/16" aren't terrible, but even bending is more difficult because it's stiffer and because of the work hardening. I find that you need to use more force in tightening down brake fittings because the harder stainless doesn't like to seal until it's tighter. While I do not now and have never had line leaks, that's also because those fittings are DAMN tight. And because I probably took 5 times longer on every single flare with the stainless than I normally do with other materials. Not including the time spent ordering and waiting for shipment of more expensive materials.

OTOH, I've talked to Mark at Bentfab, and plan to have him make a couple pieces for me that are a little unique. I'm a big believer in it for many things, and if you've got the right experience and equipment, it's the right solution. I've seen pics of his work and it looks excellent - and he was great to talk to on the phone. But for what Chad is doing (and what I did) the distance between here and Mark makes it impossible for him to do an overall brake system - especially in Chads case where the entire vehicle is custom fabrication.

Now add to this that our vehicles (Chads and mine) will certainly get driven, but not in snow or salt. I wipe my lines and everything down religiously anyway. How in the world would my lines corrode based on the use and maintenance they get? No way.

So, why would I use Stainless? Because I overengineered my build. Again. After having done it, I find no earthly reason for having done it. I will not use stainless again. I'm helping my dad with a '54 Chevy truck. It will not have stainless brake lines. I'm helping my son with a '72 Vette. It will not have stainless brake lines. To ME it's just not worth the cost and the effort. I may need to add a 2lb residual valve in the GTO. I am dreading that because I'm not sure I can get the existing line out without lifting the motor (clearance and the retaining clips to the crossmember). I have no margin for error. Just bending the lines on the car will be a very big challenge in my expectations.


Ya big sissy!
Reply With Quote