View Single Post
  #221  
Old 10-20-2011, 10:48 AM
camcojb's Avatar
camcojb camcojb is online now
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton, CA.
Posts: 13,265
Thanks: 6,794
Thanked 2,102 Times in 963 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboNova View Post
Put an engine on the dyno sometime with 8 O2 sensors and play around with regulator placement and you will see why.

Even with running the regulator in the front and looping the rails can show as much as 1 AFR point from side to side.

What stops the fuel from just bypassing the fuel to the tank insead of going to the engine? It will follow the easiest path.

There are other ways to dealing with hot fuel than bypassing it in the back.

bypassing in the rear works for a low performance engine but when you start to get something that really needs fuel flow it will not work. You will end up with burned valves and or broken pistons.
I've done a few 700-850+ rwhp cars with the regulator in the rear. Haven't broke one yet, and I'm not afraid to drive them hard. I had one that broke after I sold it, but that wasn't due to a rear regulator; that was nosing it over with an EFI tank that wasn't baffled well enough to work at 1/2 tank or lower with the acceleration of that particular car. Those were boost referenced though, so you'll be happy about that.

My Cobra was n/a and had a front regulator, but still no reference line. Ran fantastic. All of these cars had O2 bungs on both sides and the sides were always within a couple tenths in A/F; nowhere near a full point difference. That was with comparing the computers wideband to the in-dash wideband gauge, to the handheld Innovate.

As far as fuel taking the path of least resistance, it seems like you'd see the pressure issues on a gauge. I have the gauge on the rail, and on the regulator, and I am not seeing any movement, fluctuation, or dropping pressure on mine.Seems like the regulator is working fine if the pressure is dead steady, a/f basically match side to side, and the car runs great. I do not doubt what you've seen, just that I do check and don't see it on mine. A/F differences from side to side can be due to heads, intakes, etc. as you know. Interesting that you've seen a difference with just moving a regulator. I've just been doing it a different way and my stuff runs good and doesn't blow up. And I never do a mild engine................

Again, it's just the "must" wording that I cannot agree on.
__________________
Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
Reply With Quote