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Originally Posted by streetfytr68
It's not really a 3" drop. Just a name--cause 2" drop was already taken. If you are running a 26" or taller tire, you may prefer a 2" spring, but if your tires are in the 25" range, the three's help the tires fill the wheelwell. What are the specs on your rear tire?
Lowering blocks may serve as a temporary solution, but I'm pretty sure that you will need some crazy-ass blocks to get the rear down. And anything more than a 1" block can be dangerous and promote wheel hop.
Dangerous, he says? The stock design has the spring perches clamped directly to the shock plates. Space them out and the entire load is placed on the U-Bolts. DSE now makes a spacer kit that works with the lowering blocks which help.
So I'm not saying don't do it. Just check in with those who have "been there, done that" while you juggle lowering blocks to establish desired ride height. And plan on dropped leaf springs as a permanent solution.
Here's the mojo:
-Try to avoid using more than a 1" block.
-Buy only extruded aluminum blocks (not cheapo cast blocks which will crack while you are tightening the U-bolts or on the first test drive).
-Get new longer U-Bolts and hardware and trim as necessary after tightening.
-Tighten the U-bolts evenly and in stages (Duh)
-Throughout the process, think about what can and will happen if that rear gets away from the car (Very Bad!)
Sorry if I'm stating the obvious. Better safe than sorry.
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I understand what your saying, but it bugged the hell out of me because i've posted my car 100 times on this site, and if anyone looked at the back, they'd know it doesnt need a 3" or even 2" lower in the back... I'm talking about the front! hence my question about "DROP SPINDLES"
Here's a pic to show you i dont need a 2" drop in back.
