View Single Post
  #5  
Old 07-13-2012, 09:47 PM
Mkelcy's Avatar
Mkelcy Mkelcy is offline
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Walla Walla, WA
Posts: 566
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69znc View Post
John

If your car needs a true frame extension for real HP and you have invested in the car needing it, do the DSE's, they are the best and yes you need to recess to get the right stability and quality. If not do one of the other solutions with are easy, and not near as strong, thus the easier implementation. I did DSE, shock at the cost to get them installed right but since I did the rest of the car with that quality and need for true stabilty and traction it was worth every penny
I've been building my plain Jane '68 on a lift. To keep from marring the underside of the car, I've got 1/2" plywood wood blocks between the lift points and the car. I recently had to drop it onto the suspension and while it was on the ground, one of the wood blocks (driver's side rear) was knocked off the lift. When I went to lift the car again, I got the car about a foot in the air and noticed that the driver's side rear of the car was about 1/2" above the lift point. Then I noticed the wood block was missing.

I was reasonably inpressed with the over all chassis stiffness with the DSE SFCs.

I've done them twice. However, with a dynamatted interior, they would be a total PITA.

I've also got a '67 RS/SS. It'll get Hotchkis SFCs simply because I don't want to cut the body up on a semi-collectible car.
__________________
Mike - '68 Camaro with some stuff done to it
Reply With Quote