As for using the spool gun. I have a bigger MIG with a spool gun. So no.
As for lift arc TIG. Rather than buying the 'TIG kit', I was going to use my full size TIG equipment. They sell an adapter for the foot pedal and I already have everything else. However, the DINSE (I think that's what they are called) connectors are a smaller size than the full size TIGs (even my little Maxstar). So I have not TIG'd with it.
As for getting parts. I bought a spool of wire from Home Depot (note, not all home Depots even carry welding supplies!!! - check online first). I took the welder to a Boyscout welding merit badge/camp and we were welding for about 5 hrs. This was in a shop with limited electrical power - a Hobart handler 175 on 220V and my multimatic on 110V. Welding about .100 thick plate (bigger than 10 gauge, smaller than 1/8"). A little bit of nozzle spray and even with all the kids using it (very very close supervision) the nozzle looks almost perfect. By the end of the day, I think I made a sale to the owner of the Hobart - he just marveled at how smooth it welded. We did switch it to 220 just to try it out.
As for stick welding. The nice thing about stick is that it doesn't mater how thick the steel is on the parent, you set the welder based on the stick you use (and do multiple passes on big things). However, I had a little stick welder and I did projects like a rusted utility trailer and that quite frankly that is what convinced me to get a portable MIG. On really ugly projects, with poor fitup, MIGs are a lot easier.
As for Home Depot welders in general (and true about most 110V), there just isn't enough power in these little welders to safely weld structural stuff on things like trailers. I recently helped my neighbor fix a boat trailer that someone put together (at least partly) with a 110V welder. We removed many of the tabs welded on with a hammer - just snapped right off. I would leave the 110V for sheet metal. Probably OK for a unibody car.
For automotive/light truck frames I would say a 200Amp class MIG is a must. If you are dealing with trailers, make it a 250 class.
BTW, Miller came by my local welding supply store and I tried the welder there. First, their demo guys were really knowledgeable. After a quick speil about the welder they handed me a hood and some gloves and let me try it. I was immediately convinced. Switched to 110V and tried it again. Welded exactly the same on 110 and 220. Went inside and asked about 'show prices' and the gave me 25% off list (about $1800). That was close enough to on-line pricing (yes I had to pay sales tax). After the demo I was sold.
I warn you now, if you have a chance to use one, the price will become a non-issue (well until the credit card bill comes in). Don't let you wife see it. The free welding table is a bit harder to hide.
Full disclosure - I'm a hobby welder. Not a pro. I have owned Miller 251 (great welder IMHO) and currently have a Miller 350P (bought/stolen at auction - no I didn't pay full price) in addition to the 200. To me Miller has always been 100% reliable with excellent customer support and haven't had the need to experiment with anything else. I do my work on weekends and evenings and my tools have to work the first time, every-time, or I'm stuck waiting at least 24hrs to 'try again'.
That beings said, Lincoln, and Hobart all make quality stuff (much of it in the USA - probably not the Home Depot stuff). HTP has a pretty good rep. Check online for pricing. Rumor about extended 'father's day prices' for HTP. ESAB makes some light weight stuff as well. I think only Miller has the 110V and 220V capability.
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