[SparkyRnD]

Also, we took advantage of the Matt's Classic Bowtie's sale on Morris Classic Concepts 3pt seat belts (saved almost $100 over Summit Racing's price)! I was going to buy them after the car was on the road, but couldn't pass up saving $100. I will use the MCC's for regular street use and to / from events, and then use the Schroth Rallye 4's for race weekends.

I ordered Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110's based on their reviews, ratings, knowing a few people that have used them, and the price point. I got DT to price-match Summit Racing's prices (killer deal), and after it was all said and done, it saved another $300 over what I was going to pay. Thankfully, that money is now needed for some other parts that we didn't put in the budget, that are now required.

The body does look great, but in all honesty there is a ton of work that was in it before it got to the epoxy stage. And, there is going to be about 3 weeks of 8 hours a day in the body work (and that is before paint), and that still won't be a perfect show car job (for those that are wondering). When cutting and welding metal, it can still tweak even a little which requires body work on the tail end. And, even though the car was described as all original, never been wrecked, we've found a few places where there were some hidden minor dents, which of course, take extra body work. But, the car was still the best of the bunch after months of searching, and was a great price for what i got. There was a good bit of bodywork to correct sheet metal that was warped during welding / filling holes.

The good part is that the car is in the best hands I could imagine have working on a car. Our body guy is one of the best in the business, and has an amazing eye for detail. He looks for the things I would never think to look for or ask about. I feel lucky to have the car in such capable hands.

The chassis was coated at Procryo in Cumming ,GA. They did a great job on it, and we're happy. The only problem is it was scratched by another place when it was outside our care, so we'll have to fix it.

I also received the gauge package and new ABS overlay for the cluster from New Vintage, and HOLY COW they look cool! We are using a 6-gauge cluster, with tach and speedo in the center, and then oil / batt / volts / gas split on each side. In the dead center, we had them set us up with one of their killer indicator panels, that has turn signals on either end, and warning lights for check-engine, overheating, low oil, and brights. I'll get pictures up in the next day or so. The best part is that you don't have to hack up your dash to install them. You simply take the original plastic cluster housing out (unbolts from the dash), remove the factory gauges, and use a dremel to trim the original so that the new overlay will fit. Then use epoxy to secure it in place. Takes all of about 30 minutes from start to finish (plus wiring, but that is beside the point).