No luck again with the casting session.
The reason I have been trying to machine plugs and cast them in aluminum is to demonstrate the capabilities of the Columbus Idea Foundry (CIF). That's a part of my deal with Alex. I get unlimited use of the facilities and equipment, in exchange for demonstrating and marketing the services and capabilities of the place. I'm going to have to bypass metal casting for a while until they get some of the bugs worked out of their system. I could simply machine the parts, but they don't have a conventional CNC mill in house and, while technically possible, machining most of my parts, from aluminum, on the ShopBot CNC router table isn't exactly feasible. Even if I can manage to get the parts off the machine, it's probably not something a person paying for machine time could justify...
Anyway, the bezel plug survived the water-based clay investment mold process with minimal damage. I repaired that, and have begun coating it with multiple layers of acrylic paint. The plan is to really detail the external surface, in preparation for some type of casting process. I could actually do a metallic-powder-filled resin cast of that part, and meet all the technical and aesthetic requirements; so, I am finishing it with that process in mind, but still exploring options. That would be something that can be replicated in-house at CIF, using the ShopBot, and their little bell jar vacuum chamber to degas the silicone rubber mix, for a good mold...
I'm more inclined to just cut the pedestal on the ShopBot as it's a small part that I don't want to take a chance on. A resin casting of that part could get too warm and go limp or break in the middle of driving...
After spending some time in the seat, trying to imagine driving Schism - and especially with the type of power I'm seeking - the gauge panel has evolved into a command/information center. Since moving will be difficult, and nearly impossible in the 5pt harness, I need all switches and controls at my fingertips. The most logical location for the switches is in the gauge panel.
This CAD rough sketch: shows the recesses for the three main switches (there will be more, kind of hidden), with the engine start button recessed deeper and slightly behind the main ignition switch location. I didn't go into detail with the CAD model because this will be mostly hand fabrication. The model was just to develop a few hard numbers to guide that process.
First step was to attempt to seamlessly integrate a Honda S2000 engine start button into the antique panel. The ingredients:
The button is internally illuminated, though I'm not sure if the whole button glows red or just the text. If it doesn't, and if I don't like it as-is, I will eventually eventually cast a new button in red-tinted, clear, resin.
After a little manual mill work:
To accomplish this:
I didn't go for a super precise fit, as this is a chrome plated plastic switch in a steel housing. I hate buzzing and rattling, so I plan to mount it with black RTV, to keep it quiet. The steel is cut slightly oversize, and does not adhere rigidly to the shape of the button, for this reason; and to allow for final finishing (paint, powder coat, plating, etc). The two notches are the key, as they orient the switch, and a little bumper on the back engages the OEM spring.