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Old 04-29-2013, 08:52 AM
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DaleTx DaleTx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
Thanks Dale. Very cool clean setup.

You say your tank holds 3.5 gallons when half full. That can't be right. You must be 3.5 gallons if it was 100% full, yes?

I am going with a minimum of 4 gallons myself as well per 95% of the recommendations I have sought out and for trunk position. I also will have a cell to deal with but I see you have a factory type fuel tank. I envy you!

Again, very nice setup and thanks for passing on the info. I may end up doing a custom shaped tank like you as well.
Thanks Flash!

When I first put oil in my dry sump system (after draining completely) I use a total of 3.5 gallons of oil… I dump one quart into the new oil filter and then add 13 quarts of oil in the tank in the trunk. I have a bung on the side of the oil tank with a removable plug at the halfway point so I know when the tank is half full. After adding the 13 quarts into the tank the oil just starts to come out the hole. Some of the oil added to the tank goes into the pressure line going to the pump… so this accounts for some of the oil volume.

So the tank in the trunk is half full with 3.5 gallons of oil in the system with a fresh oil change. The reason the tank is run only half full is to allow for variations in the oil level. As the RPM of the engine increase the volume of oil returning to the tank increases. If I run more than 14 quarts of oil in the system then I start seeing oil in my remote breather tank. It’s kind of a balancing act… you want to make sure you always have a head of oil in the tank to supply the pressure section of the pump… and you need to have a tank with enough capacity to allow for variations of oil volume at the tank during low and high RPM operation.

I am no expert on dry sump systems but I did research and took advice from people who design dry sump systems, and have experience running dry sump systems, and this is what they recommended for running a dry sump system with the tank mounted in the trunk. I have run the engine on the street and also wide open on the track and everything is working well. For extra piece of mind… I installed a warning light (pressure switch) that turns on if the oil pressure drops below 18psi… so far I have never seen the light come on.


Here is a picture that shows the bung and brass plug at the halfway point on the oil tank.



Your car project is very cool... i like it

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69 Camaro-Nutter Racing Engines/427CI LS2 sleeved/LS7 CNC ported heads/Custom cam/T&D 1.8 rockers/Manley crank/Manley H-beam rods/Weisco pistons/NRC Pro Series dry sump/Kooks/NA,92 octane,11.5:1- 672HP @ 6,900RPM, 566TQ @ 5,500RPM
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